The cuz from Oz is over again and we arrange to meet somewhere central.

I receive a warm welcome from staff and explain I will soon be two.

There is a spread of tables at the front of the deep room, the star of which is the rectangular bar and around which small tables line the walls.

There's a lot of black at the back but the fire is lit near the front and the atmosphere is relaxed and comfortable.

I check out the blackboard lunch menu, the card menu and the lunch ''star grazing'' menu of two dishes with wine.

''No, I won't order yet but, yes, some water would be lovely.''

Five minutes later, I tell myself I will give the cousin five more and then I will order.

Some of us have to go back to work.

The maitre d' asks if everything is OK and I say something scathing about a Sydneysider getting lost.

''We ring Australia all the time,'' she says and proffers her cellphone but I don't have the number.

I order from the star grazing menu - pumpkin and ricotta tortellini with sage butter, amaretti crumbs and parmesan - partnered with a Villa Maria Reserve Gimblett Gravels Syrah 2007.

Just as the cousin arrives, flustered having been seeking a Ponsonby St brasserie, so does my meal.

Looks great and tastes even better: perfect plump pumpkin pillows.

Alliteration never looked or tasted so good.

The cousin wants the same but agrees to have the other ''star'' - the Moroccan spiced duck filo cigar with quinoa, herb and grape salad, pine nuts and pomegranate molasses.

Even the description is mouthwatering.

Some filo cigars are the size of panatelas - this makes a statement, this is a Churchill. Cousin loves her meal but lifts off a central blob of sour cream.

''It doesn't need it.'' Because I finish ahead of her, I order dessert and coffee together.

The affogato comes on a small salver, the icecream in one dish the espresso, rightly, in another.

This one like a miniature martini glass.

The strength of the coffee takes me aback but then I like two spoons of sugar in an espresso and delicious as the praline is, I could have done with more of it.

That being said, it was probably the kick I needed - some of us have to go back to work.

PONSONBY ROAD BISTRO

WHERE: 165 Ponsonby Rd, Auckland, ph (09) 360-1611.

WHEN: Monday to Friday from noon; Monday to Saturday, reduced menu 3pm-5.30pm, dinner from

5.30 pm.

WHAT'S TO EAT: Star lunch choices, plus fish, pork, poultry, steak and pizza.

HOW MUCH: $68.50 for two lunches, two wines and a dessert.

WHAT DO WE THINK: Fabulous food and star service

- Auckland Now

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