Review: Grill Meats Beer

LAURA VINCENT
Last updated 15:50 25/05/2014
Grill Meats Beer
CAMERON BURNELL/FAIRFAX NZ

GRILL MEATS BEER: You could have a good time from the starters alone - venison salami, romesco dip with grilled bread and Spanish meatballs with smoked tomato sauce.

Relevant offers

Capital Life

How Mike's beer started as a university experiment When Moko the dolphin came to play Summer Profile: Splash Planet's Holland Toso Summer essay: The Diving Board Summer Essay: Odd man out in nursing hostel Surf Life Saving's Aaron Smith: Salt water in my veins Karen Fifield's perfect holiday: Dreaming of Europe Holiday horrors: A fast ride to disappointment Falling for mud, glorious mud Justin Lester's perfect summer

Just moments from Logan Brown there is now Grill Meats Beer, from the same team, with food made to the same high level and attention to detail, but in a more casual, relaxed setting.

Despite my tolerance - over-reliance even - on puns, the name of the place doesn't appeal to me, but everything else is rather faultless. A breezy menu of starters and share plates, salads, plus steaks, burgers and ribs from the grill.

You could have a good time from the starters alone - venison salami, romesco dip with grilled bread, albondigas (Spanish meatballs) with smoked tomato sauce. My friend Kim and I share the popcorn monkfish and the JFC - Japanese Fried Chicken.

The popcorn fish consists of crunchily fried morsels of tender monkfish, livened up by the accompanying orange aioli, and is, one assumes entirely without judgment, inspired by KFC's popcorn chicken. Similarly the JFC is evidently modelled on the Japanese dish, karaage - and excellently so, with lusciously fried pieces of chicken and spicy sriracha mayo for dipping.

What's very cool is that GMB offers smaller versions of most dishes, which is why I felt confident about inhaling all that animal protein before even getting started on my main: A "mini me" version of GMB's chicken burger, with brined and grilled chicken thigh, bacon aioli, lettuce, onion knots and a brioche bun.

It's completely spectacular - the chicken so juicy and tender and full of rich flavour, the bhaji- style onions adding crunch and the salty, smoky tint of bacon in the aioli just plain fun. And why aren't all burgers served on brioche? Soft, sweet, a delicious component of the whole.

Kim orders GMB's Pulled Pork Banh Mi, which is a Vietnamese baguette with the delightful combination of said pulled pork, plus chicken liver parfait, lettuce, pickled carrot, cucumber, coriander, mayo and hot sauce.

You'd think it would be impossibly rich but somehow the light-textured parfait and the soft-sweet strands of slow- roasted pork create something very moreish without being too intense.

It's worth noting that if you're a vegetarian there's not a lot for you here - one of the restaurant's two "not meat" items contains salmon.

Ad Feedback

- Sunday Star Times

Comments

Special offers
Opinion poll

If you had a choice, which would you prefer on Christmas day?

A sunny, warm, breathless day

A metre of snow to play in

Thunder and rain - perfect for indoor lunch and snooze

Don't mind at all ... that BBQ will be lit

Vote Result

Related story: Sun takes a Christmas holiday

Featured Promotions

Sponsored Content