Steve Logan: Gambling on food

PRIYANKA BHONSULE/Hutt News

CUISINE CULTURE: Steve Logan, of Logan Brown, says it is now an established part of Kiwi culture to meet someone in a cafe or bar, and despite the recession people keep their eating habits.

Relevant offers

Hutt News

Owners told to keep dogs away from signposted areas of Hutt River Bus access debate likely to spark lively Thursday meeting Hutt woman Shazly Rasheed fashions a brilliant career Hutt Valentine's wooing included treasure hunt Lodge owner offers Baring Head access deal City has 'failed its heritage responsibilities' Rider's mother says motorists' toots, speed spook horses Hutt dancers shine at Australian dancing showcase Local is swept up in debate over stream bank planting Ranger keen to get to bottom of seat theft

Ignorance is bliss, says restaurateur Steve Logan, explaining that if he had paid too much attention to external factors such as the stock market crash of 1987, he would have never opened his first restaurant a year after.

"I was very single-minded and charged ahead."

His passion and commitment to the hospitality industry has earned him an honorary bachelor of hospitality management degree from WelTec at the graduation ceremony last week  an honour he calls "a nice surprise".
Mr Logan's first restaurant, Brer Fox in Thorndon, was a risk, with just 30 seats when large pubs and taverns were reigning, and with Cajun cuisine.

"Owning that restaurant was the hugest buzz of my life," he says. "I remember we served our first lunch customers, about 20 people. After the service, I opened up the till and there was a cheque in there for $30. I just stood there looking at it thinking, 'Someone has trusted what I'm putting on their plate and paid me for it.' I just stood there, staring at the cheque and counting through all the money again."

From those humble beginnings, Mr Logan moved on to open Cafe Lafitte in Oriental Bay and in 1996, teaming up with his long-time mate, Al Brown, they opened Logan Brown.

To most Wellingtonians, Logan Brown needs no introduction. Winner of Cuisine Magazine's 2009 Restaurant of the Year, it has been described as a temple for worshippers of wine and food, an international flagship of New Zealand cuisine.

Mr Brown manages the cooking while Mr Logan is in charge of the business side of things.

This, despite the fact that while studying at CIT in Heretaunga (later amalgamated to become Weltec), it was the food and beverage part of the diploma that he preferred.

''I wasn't good at desk jobs, listening to irrelevant stuff about accounts or whatever, but now, running the business side of things here, I wish I'd paid more attention.

''I never showed up in those academic classes, but I showed up the other guys in the kitchen.

"Cooking and serving food was logical to me.''

He says being a kitchenhand prior to studying was the best learning experience he had.

''By the time I got to studying, I knew what a foie-gras was, knew how to wash sinkloads of dishes, knew what it was like to be yelled at by chefs.''

He graduated with a diploma in hotel and catering administration in 1981, and went travelling overseas for a couple of years, working in English pubs, as a sous chef in a ski resort restaurant in America and restaurant manager in Sweden.

With Logan Brown, the desire was to create high quality modern cuisine in a big restaurant. In the 90s, high quality restaurants were small and big restaurants were family-orientated.

''The principle for us has always been to do a good job and be consistent; no matter what time of the day it is, what day of the week, the service and food should be a great experience.''

That dedication won them the highest honour in New Zealand's food industry  Restaurant of the Year.

''Winning that was up there with reading the first cheque!'' says Mr Logan.

Despite having hung up his chef's hat to take over the administrative mantle, he still enjoys being involved in menu planning with Mr Brown and head chef Shaun Clouston, admitting that if he wasn't so committed to other sides of the business, he'd  love to work in the kitchen once a week, ''learning from the lads''.

''Cooking is an infinite art. We've definitely been getting some good students [from polytechnics] and we've been impressed by how much they know. The polytech learning environment is a filter  to come out the other end they must have something.''

He says student competitions such as the Toque d'Or are good because students prepare for it in their own time, showing commitment and passion beyond the classroom.

But he warns that it doesn't necessarily mean they would be a great chef - ''rather they want it more than anyone else''.

''You really learn when you start working in the kitchen  until you're under fire, you're not a cook, not a chef.''

WELTEC AND LOGAN BROWN

There is a provision of ongoing work experience at Logan Brown for WelTec students. Three WelTec graduates are currently employed by Logan Brown; Torque d'Or Gold medal winner and restaurant manager, Tim Van Dipton, pastry chef Belinda Beckett and chef Christina Thompson.

- Hutt News

Newest First

Oldest First