Antarctic adventure "out of this world"

BY KRIS DANDO

Porirua Mayor Jenny Brash enjoyed the trip of a lifetime during the recent holidays, one that took her from the ice of Antarctica to the splendour of Patagonia.

After flying to Ushuaia, in the Argentine province of Tierra del Fuego, Ms Brash departed on a Russian icebreaker (Polar Explorer) on December 18 towards Trinity Island in the Antarctic peninsular. The 10-day cruise was "out of this world", she says.

In a triple-berth cabin, the overall experience was one of comfort interspersed with moments of "extreme cold" and "breathtaking scenery". There were highlights galore, including Christmas lunch on the deck of the icebreaker, surrounded by icebergs, the myriad of "blues" you see in this part of the world, and the penguins, sea lions, whales and bird life.

"There were at least two or three zodiac [inflatable boat] trips out every day, it was really up to you how often you went out. There was 54 people on the boat  we had kayakers, families, everyone got on so well, it was a great crowd. The crew were fantastic and there was a real emphasis on safety, I can't fault the way the trip was organised."

There was an option to spend a night outdoors, sleeping on the ice, something Ms Brash decided was for the "young ones".

The 24-hour light gave everything an eerie atmosphere, she says.

The cruise was run by Sydney-based outfit Aurora Expeditions and Ms Brash noted an absence of tourist ships in the Antarctic peninsula, likely to due to the economic downturn.

She says she struck it "just right" in terms of the time of year to travel down there.

"I have wanted to do this for so long, my cousin has been doing it [going to Antarctica] for 25 years on research ships and so I'd heard all his stories."

"I can't emphasise the sheer grandeur of the place, it's so cold, so unspoilt."

Ms Brash got her sea legs back in Ushuaia (pop. 64,000) on December 28, where she also saw in the new year.

The Argentinians refer to it as the southernmost city in the world but their Chilean neighbours claim the settlement of Puerto Williams is, although that "city" only has some 2000 people.

From January 3-20 Ms Brash and seven others spent their days travelling in a Mercedes truck, through world heritage parks in Patagonia. It is the southernmost portion of South America, with the Andes to the west and south, and plains to the east and is rich with mountains, glaciers, lakes and rivers.

They were "backwards and forwards" through both Argentina and Chile, as they wound their way up towards Buenos Aires.

The landscape of the Torres del Paine National Park struck her most, with the massive Paine spur, sticking out from the Andes, rising dramatically over the Patagonian steppe.

"They were just immense, this is just an incredible part of the world that is so vast.

"The climate is up and down though, the weather seems to change every few hours. It's so gorgeous, just a wonderful place to visit."

Ms Brash opted for the comfort of hotel stays, although there were a few nights camping. She travelled with an eclectic bunch, who were "full of fun".

"In South America you see so many young people who have a passion for travelling and the outdoors.

"Meeting and talking to them, you think 'the world is in good hands'."

- Kapi-Mana News