I have discussed in the past the various kitchen staples that would, should I ever find myself without them, cause me much distress. Many of them are kind of obvious - canned tomatoes, dried spaghetti, olive oil, lemons, onions, garlic. With them I know I can always whip up a very basic meal. There are things that I like to have - fresh herbs such as parsley, coriander, or rocket leaves; noodles, couscous, canned beans or chickpeas, parmesan cheese, fresh ground pepper, butter. And if there is a little bacon and some eggs - all the better.
But there is one thing that will improve the taste of pretty well any of these basic ingredients. Something that has been in equal parts treasured and vilified, something that has been traded for centuries, and that is a vital ingredient in most recipes, whether savoury or, increasingly, sweet.
Salt. It's so basic, so obvious that I reckon we often take it for granted. I think we often greatly underestimate its importance in our food. Used correctly, and in the right quantity, it seems to make food taste more of itself - think of tomatoes, or eggs, or potatoes or pasta without salt - underwhelming. Weak tasting. But, given a sprinkle of salt, they really come into their own. It makes food sing.
In general, I like things that are fairly salty. I blame my grandfather, whose taste for salt had him making a pile of salt on the side of his plate, into which he dipped his food - slightly terrifying. And while I do think that this is overkill, I think that people are often too timid when it comes to seasoning. People always seem to find restaurant food more flavoursome - quite largely because, as US food/travel writer Anthony Bourdain notes, when the food is creamier, and butterier, and saltier than what you would make at home, it is because it has more cream, and butter, and salt than you might allow yourself to use in home cooking.
Sometimes (like, say, when I have just finished eating a couple of weeks of pretty much nothing but burgers!), I crave nothing so much as steamed veges - cauliflower, broccoli, carrots, or asparagus (that is coming into season now!) - dressed with nothing but lemon juice, maybe a drizzle of olive oil, and a sprinkle of salt. So simple, and so delicious. Or a baked potato with butter, or sour cream, and salt. Always a little salt.
How much salt? Enough salt. I think something is salty enough when you don't notice it enough to think that something is actually salty; rather, it just tastes like what it is supposed to taste like. Salt makes things such as eggs or tomatoes have more depth of flavour, and, as I always find, if food is more flavoursome, you feel less inclined to overeat. This is subjective, and salty enough for one person will be too salty for another. And, while you can always add salt to your food, you can't take away what it has been cooked with.
There is that adage that you should cook pasta in water that is "as salty as the Mediterranean" (though there is always going to be some debate as to just how salty the Mediterranean actually is...).
I think it is important to serve food that is seasoned, and salted, to a reasonable degree, and also to have salt (and pepper) on the table (I think it is annoying if a restaurant or café does not).
Ultimately, I think salt is just like anything else - moderation. You need to make salt work for you, and also be aware of its ability to make food dry out and go tough and rubbery when you cook with it - especially things like eggs and meat. I always think of salt as the counterpoint to fresh lemons, which I also use a lot when cooking. I like to use standard iodised salt in cooking, and Maldon salt at the table, in dressings, and for finishing food - I love its flaky texture and intense flavour (you may prefer another type of salt?).
And sure, too much salt is bad - it may increase the risk of stroke or cardiovascular disease (though some of this information is contentious). But then too much of anything is no good for you. And salt is an essential part of the way we build flavour in food and cooking - think of a delicious salted caramel, of slices of tomato on crusty bread with just salt, fresh basil leaves and olive oil. Or the sprinkle of sea salt on freshly churned butter.
Are you a salt fiend? Would you agree that proper seasoning is one of the things that elevates "eating out" food over that which you (abstemiously) prepare at home? What is your favourite use for salt? And - what is your favourite salt?
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I like pink salt (because it's pink haha) and the flaky kind you crumble with your fingers - good, nay, GREAT! with a rocket, pear, parmesan salad drizzled with syrupy balsamic. YUM. Also fantastic with watermelon and feta salad.
I'm curious about Kosher salt, because a lot of overseas recipes call for its use but I've never actually seen it on a shelf here in NZ (not that I admitedly look that hard at the salt shelf to be honest)
I LOVE SALT!
Nice article
I always find that salt (Maldon or ground rock salt) on each side of a steak before a barbecue always improves the taste and texture.
Salt is key to everything, it brings out the flavour in so much, even a dash of salt in deserts is key! i salt everything heavily, especially water for pasta as it gives it that authentic taste. get some salt in ya!
Great to see an article on salt Jeremy.
I am salt "snob" and use sel de guerande for the table and fleur de sel de guerande for dinner parties. I really think it does make a difference - although when we bought five kilos from France my friend's farmer dad told us he dined out on the story for a year.
Maldon is an ok second - I like their smoked salt.
Iodised rock/sea salt for cooking.
I am glad you have said you use iodised for cooking as although it is a little bitter there is a lack of iodine in our diet. My mil switched to non-iodised salt and got a goiter!
"Isn't too much salt bad for you?"
"Yes, that is how much, too much is."
(Adapted from Stephen Fry many years ago)
I currently use Maldon salt for direct use, Himalayan for the grinder, Lo-Salt for cooking, and Kosher salt as and when the whim takes me.
I love so many condiments, spices and herbs, and the BEST measurements are the delightfully vague 'pinch', 'shake', 'handful'; these are all subjective, and my 'pinch' will most usually suit my taste buds, and my other half's much larger handed 'pinch' usually suits his.. :P
If you don't use salt in your cooking, you will never produce a tasty dish. Something that my mother in law has failed to learn....the in-laws really like my cooking, but can't work out why it tastes different :)
Certain foods you should not salt before or during cooking. Beans for example. They will remain hard no matter how long you cook them for.
And then there is the eternal argument over whether a steak should be salted before cooking it. Personally, I do season my steak before cooking, but there seem to be a few people who believe salt ruins a steak if applied beforehand.
I do the salt dipping thing!! And smoked salt - om nom nom. My poor arteries hahaha
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Good crackling on roast pork needs a *lot* of salt. Rock salt is good for this, as you can then brush off the flakes of salt before serving, if you are trying to limit salt intake.