Bring on the beef
BY JANICE BREEN BURNS
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Fashion
Swaggering pretty boys, thin as toothpicks, in sucked-lean jeans have lorded over men's fashion for five traumatic seasons - but no longer.
Skinnier and skinnier the ideal bloke's silhouette got as catwalks bristled more thickly every season with 50-kilo weaklings, all downy cheeks, pillow lips and wing-nut ears. Lovely young things they were. Are still.
In certain excruciatingly fashionable circles, the fad of boyish thinness spread like ripples in a pool until smooth boney youth was prized, even above the traditional benchmarks of masculine beauty; manly beards and six-packs.
Skinny youth was a slow-moving revolution, a backlash against the fit, ripped, beefy "ideal man" who had hung around fashion so long.
Where would it end? For a brief, unnerving time, it seemed boys and men everywhere might be burdened by this new, fictitiously thin "ideal", just as girls and women are burdened by fashion's archetypal "twig woman".
But then. Really. Like, blokes would fall for that self-destructive girly malarkey?
I don't think so. They are simply too sensible, grounded by practicality and rarely swayed by vanity on its own.
So fashion's hysteria around thin boys and silhouettes dissipated like smoke this season.
Matthew Anderson of Melbourne's Chadwick model agency reports beefy boys are back on fashion's menu, being cast as often as the twiggy chaps. Even more. We have, in other words, co-existence of two strong ideals.
The thin silhouette has lost none of its appeal. Australian brand Jack London by Karl Bartl, for example, is one of the slickest, leanest, skinniest menswear collections around: trousers like leggings, tubal tailoring, stuff to make thin boys look smashing.
But the silhouette has also adapted to all men who like their fashion lean. As beefier-than-ideal blokes unashamedly adopted the sucked-lean jeans and single-malt suits, the look changed to accommodate the bulge of muscles, the subtle tightness of tailoring over a manly chest.
Thick or thin, in other words, any bloke can look smashing in "thin", the dominant silhouette this season can be achieved with just a few choice items.
LAYER THIS
Waistcoat - buttoned, zipped, flapping open.
Turtleneck knit - under anything.
Trench coat - the shell that binds.
Pea or duffle jacket - the shell that binds when the trench is not.
Biker and bomber jackets - puffa, leather, nylon or fabric.
Jumper - textured, patterned, chunky, or thin and long.
Checked shirts - practically any plaid will do, but never in flannel.
Scarves - all colours, patterns, textures and from snake-like to shawl.
Jeans - bootcut and straight for men, stovepipe for boys.
Oversized long-sleeved T - the cotton knit layering piece, bought by quality, not the dozen.
Hoodie - longer, designed; leave last season's crappy one behind.
- © Fairfax NZ News
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The skinny "men" look very much like the skinny women on the catwalk. Androgenous robots, designed to please fashion designers who desire the androgenous shape and ambiguous sexuality. Need I say more?
The reason for unreasonable thinness of models of both genders lies in the sexual preferences of leading clothing designers. With majority being gay, it is a little wonder male and female models have no identifiable gender traits. Girls look like emaciated boys, boys look like emaciated girls. It matters not who the clothing is created for, as none of us, the regular plebs with regular bodies will wear the outrageous or impractical offerings, what does matter is that it looks just as designer intended, hobbling down the runway on the shoulders of a skeletal apparition of indeterminate gender or age.
Re#2 People do buy things from the catwalk you know, the marketing is not just aimed soley at women but yes 'slightly' as a lot of women (so they say) have more to do with their mans atire than the man himself (unfortunately for those men) but they do market mens clothes to appeal to men mainly!! there are a lot of men out there that go by the book or the 'catwalk' when making their decisions on what to buy and the marketing works...though to come back to the point of this article I am glad to hear that the gaunt "pete wentz" type male is out and the real man back in!! I don't think it will ever be the same for women however cause let's face it we don't want to see "larger" girls on the catwalks do we.
re #1. I think the marketing is aimed at women. Obviously not to sell the clothes but to sell the brand as a cool, fashionable clothing label. Nobody buys anything from a catwalk - let's be honest. But the designers create their brand from the show - be it shocking, querky, conservative etc.
I have never understood why fashion houses use feminine teenage looking boys (eg. Kelvin Klein)to advertise their men's line. It's no wonder adult men don't want to buy the stuff. They are too afraid to end up looking like a girly looking teenager. Furthermore, most teenagers can't afford top labels anyway so why market to them. Why not use "REAL ADULT" men - someone that might actually have to shave in the morning and not boys that look like they haven't even finished puberty yet.
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I think the gaunt look is supposed to represent struggle & inner conflict which has always been associated with the music industry. Music & fashion have been co-dependent for ages, tho music seems to be the leader & fashion the follower, Eg, the beatles, led zepp, boy george, Nirvana, perhaps not in high fashion tho, those freaks just do whatever the hell they want. Just look at that black judge dude from America's next top model...I rest my case. In the last 10 years or so, I think music has not had a real leader in terms of making fashion statements. The proliferation EMO-ism & the latest fascination with Vampire culture have given real impetus making gaunt "in". I think it will be a while before "beefy" edges out "gaunt". Beefy people don't appear to struggle with much apart from their appearance naked in the mirror. Gaunt people look like they struggle with everything. Inner struggle & conflict appeals to the fashion culture right now - well that's my opinion anyway. Rangi.