Sexiness fires up Milan Fashion Week

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TAKE A BOW: A model displays a creation as part of Salvatore Ferragamo Fall/Winter 2010/11 women's collection during Milan Fashion Week.

LADYLIKE CHIC: A model displays a creation as part of Salvatore Ferragamo Fall/Winter 2010/11 women's collection during Milan Fashion Week.

CHANGING SPOTS: A model displays a creation as part of Dolce&Gabbana Fall/Winter 2010/11 women's collection.

TUNED IN: A model displays a creation as part of Dolce&Gabbana Fall/Winter 2010/11 women's collection.

TOUCH OF LUXE: A model displays a creation as part of Dolce&Gabbana Fall/Winter 2010/11 women's collection.

MODEL TRIBE: Models on the runway at Dolce&Gabbana Fall/Winter 2010/11 women's show during Milan Fashion Week.

LEGS ELEVEN: Models on the runway at Dolce&Gabbana Fall/Winter 2010/11 women's show during Milan Fashion Week.

BARELY THERE: A model displays a creation as part of Dolce&Gabbana Fall/Winter 2010/11 women's collection during Milan Fashion Week.

FLOWER POWER: A model displays a creation as part of Dolce&Gabbana Fall/Winter 2010/11 women's collection.

MAESTROS OF FASHION: Italian designers Domenico Dolce (L) and Stefano Gabbana acknowledge the applause at the end of their show.

LOVE OF FASHION: Courtney Love poses for photographers before attending the Roberto Cavalli Fall/Winter 2010/11 Women's collection show.

FACING THE PRESS: Lindsay Lohan poses for photographers before attending the Roberto Cavalli Fall/Winter 2010/11 Women's collection.

FASHION PRINCESS: Lindsay Lohan poses for photographers before attending the Roberto Cavalli Fall/Winter 2010/11 Women's collection.

IN THE NUDE:A model displays a creation as part of Roberto Cavalli Fall/Winter 2010/11 women's collection during Milan Fashion Week.

PRINTS CHARMING: A model displays a creation as part of Roberto Cavalli Fall/Winter 2010/11 women's collection during Milan Fashion Week.

FUR REVIVAL: A model displays a creation as part of Roberto Cavalli Fall/Winter 2010/11 women's collection during Milan Fashion Week.

WALK THE WALK: Models walk at the end of Roberto Cavalli Fall/Winter 2010/11 women's collection show.

TAKING A BOW: Designer Roberto Cavalli and his wife Eva acknowledge the applause at the end of his Fall/Winter 2010/11 women's collection show.

FIELD OF FLOWERS: A model presents a creation as part of the Versus Fall/Winter 2010/11 women's collection during Milan Fashion Week.

ORANGE CRUSH: A model presents a creation as part of the Versus Fall/Winter 2010/11 women's collection during Milan Fashion Week.

OVER THE RAINBOW: Models presents a creation as part of the Versus Fall/Winter 2010/11 women's collection during Milan Fashion Week.

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Next winter will be more colorful and retro for womenswear, designers at Milan fashion week showed, with brands making bolder statements in their creations as customers regain optimism and seek newness for their wardrobes.

The omnipresence of fur played up a luxury feel at the autumn-winter 2010/2011 shows while an emphasis on sexiness was clear from Prada's dresses with fitted bodices and ruffles delineated busts to Versace's asymmetrical creations.

Designers injected doses of color from red and orange at Giorgio Armani to pink at Bottega Veneta.

A pickup in turnover for Italy's fashion industry is forecast this year after it fell 15 percent last year to 56.5 billion euros ($76.77 billion) in 2009 as the crisis hit demand.

"Even though the economy is showing some signs of recovery ... it's important the designer thinks of ... the woman who can afford to buy the clothes going up and down the runway," Ken Downing, fashion director at Neiman Marcus, said.

"We're very pleased, it's all about newness and newness is paramount. Women are not buying something they already own."

Designers mixed leather, fur and wool on clothes and at times took inspiration from male wardrobes.

Known for his polished elegance, Armani presented square-shouldered jackets over short shirts that were reminiscent of the 1980s while sleeveless dresses were covered in tiger print or embroidery. He also put capes over dresses and toques with strips that lay like a fringe on models' heads.

Gucci had cashmere coats and collarless cropped jackets, paired with silk tops and skinny trousers with folded waists and metal plate belts. Dresses with metal collars and cuffs had cuts exposing skin. They were worn with over-the-knee suede boots.

Patterned Chantilly lace dresses with sequins or ostrich feathers for evening wear were worn with lace stockings.

"It's absolutely full-blown luxury, every fur you can imagine," fashion journalist Hilary Alexander said of the shows.

"EVOLUTION NOT REVOLUTION"

Prada's silhouettes cast a late 1950s/early 1960s look with jackets with doubled-up collars in fur and knit and matching skirts. Dresses bore wallpaper-style patterns in red, mustard and brown and were worn with wool socks decorated with frills.

For Versace's biker chic line, designer Donatella Versace put zips on leather and suede jackets, trousers and fitted dresses, which were worn with boots with chunky heels.

Bottega Veneta creative director Tomas Maier put bandeau leather tops and wool felt sleeves and collars on sleeveless silk dresses. He also highlighted the season's trend for ankle or calf length boots with his black wedge booties.

Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana highlighted the sartorial work of their Dolce & Gabbana brand with tailored black jackets. They also presented black lace and satin dresses.

There were also floral, polka dot and animal print designs.

The duo showed snowflake patterned knits worn with chiffon skirts and furry boots for their second D&G line.

Armani picked an "Uptown Girl" look for his Emporio Armani line, with short skirts paired with eco-fur and wool jackets.

Celebrating the 40th birthday of his brand, Roberto Cavalli picked a bohemian look with military-inspired tapestry brocade tailcoats and mixed fur jackets. Models wore transparent trousers over shorts and floating dresses in tulle.

Accessories played a strong role in all shows and buyers noted a more wearable and comfortable shape for bags.

"I wouldn't say that (designers) are being cautious," said Marigay McKee, fashion and beauty director at Harrods. "I would say it's more of an evolution than a revolution."

- Reuters