Wardrobe 101: The utility jacket

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WARDROBE ESSENTIAL: Streamlined for a new era, the reworked utility jacket makes a polished return.

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This military-meets-safari piece has been playing the fashion field since 1968 when smouldering Prussian model Veruschka stared down the lens in a YSL safari look. Streamlined for a new era, the reworked utility jacket makes a polished return.

Why you need it now

Set to be a classic, the utility jacket's tailored lines are flattering while the neat embellishments put a fresh twist on the next wave of minimalism.

What to look for

Celine shows us pristine lines with large pleated pockets and full sleeves destined to be favourites. Marc Jacobs gives a nod to the army with his brass-buttoned green jacket for Louis Vuitton, 3.1 Phillip Lim and Comme des Garcons crop theirs and Alexander Wang's brown jacket marches to a modern beat.

The runway saw shades of brown, camel, cream and army-green, with the occasional trench detail creeping in. Get the most out of the utility jacket with a structured shape, neat shoulders, brass snap buttons, flat epaulettes and pockets to suit your size.

Always cinch the waist with a sturdy belt and resist the urge to ditch the handbag and fill your pockets. Though camouflage prints are lurking, don't go too literal with this look. Keep it sleek, short or sweet.

Style to suit you

Petite shapes, look for a slim cut with skinny lapels, square pockets and flat buttons. A cropped version with a short dress and heels keep it smart yet sexy.

Pear shapes, you can afford to go all out with epaulettes, pockets and buckles. Wear one to the hip and cinch it with a wide leather belt to keep the shape feminine.

Busty ladies, keep it simple with clean lines and flat pockets. Belt it in the same colour to avoid being too bulky up top and keep it fresh with a white shirt underneath.

Larger shapes, take it to the thigh, add a silk scarf to your neck, rein it in with a slim belt and pop on a skirt for utility sophistication.

Tall and slim, go sexy with a utility jacket buttoned up over a flirty skirt and add a sprinkling of brooches, John Galliano-style.

Five more ways to wear

Weekender = UJ with long tee, bright knit, jeans and boots.

Workwear = UJ with blouse, straight skirt and wedge-heeled courts.

Urban flair = UJ with white shirt, full skirt, silk scarf and flats.

Smart = UJ over tank with wide-leg pants and brogues.

Date night = UJ belted over LBD with metallic heels and bold cuff.

- © Fairfax NZ News