The dumbing down of wine

BY WARREN BARTON
Last updated 05:00 09/09/2009

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Food & Wine

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God forbid it should ever come to this. But even in the 12 months since the last annual assessment by four Masters of Wine who work for Britain's oldest independent wine merchant, Berry Bros and Rudd, the wine world has moved, or has been forced by the global recession to move another step closer to dumbing down what we drink.

Or what some of us drink.

For those who don't remember, the experts predicted that 50 years hence big brand wines could be grape or blend specific, rather than from a particular country.

Which means that grapes will be gathered from around the world and blended to suit consumers' tastes.

As Jasper Morris, one of the brains trust said: Customers will be asking for wine by the brand name or flavour and won't know, or care, where it has come from.

He also suggested that grapes will be genetically modified to change a wine's taste and producers will add artificial flavourings to create wines in a style that consumers want.

Morris and his mates believe the big brands boom will be driven by spirits companies and supermarkets who, by 2058, will own most of the world's wine brands.

Increasingly, they say, consumers may recognise wine brands (and the flavours associated with them) in the same way they do spirit brands such as Smirnoff.

Rather than ordering a glass of Australian Shiraz, Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc or Californian Merlot, it could be commonplace to ask for a "Lindemans Light" or "Rosemount Red".

Call it a load of rubbish if you like, but who, in 1958, would have predicted the US, Argentina or Chile would be capable of producing good wine? Now, nearly every other bottle of wine is made outside of Europe's Big Five wine producing regions and these countries lead the New World wine rankings.

But for how long?

The men from Berrys suggested that China, already the world's sixth largest wine producer and number four in terms of area under vine, will by 2058 be the leading producer of volume wine.

In the words of Alun Griffiths MW: "With the right soil, low labour costs and soaring domestic demand, China is set to take the world of wine by storm."

And if global warming persists it is predicted that there could well be some significant new players countries such as Ukraine, Moldova, Croatia, Slovenia which sit on the same latitude as France's top wine producing regions, and parts of Canada, which by 2058 could start to rival the US.

For Australia the news was not so good, with the Berrys experts predicting it will in 50 years time be too hot and arid to support large areas of vine; it will no longer be renowned for volume wine and will become, instead, a niche producer, concentrating on hand-crafted, terroir-driven, fine wine.

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Not surprisingly there was no mention of New Zealand, which is a minnow in the general scheme of things, albiet a minnow with a huge reputation for its sauvignion blanc, for its pinot noir and other varietals lovingly crafted in smaller quantities for winelovers who are unlikely ever to settle for the dumber wines which are already starting to appear, particularly on supermarket shelves. But, according to Berrys they will pay. And pay plenty for their pleasure.

Me? I say long live small brand wines, such as a couple of new releases from Sam and Mandy Weaver of Churton, in Marlborough, that I tasted this week.

Their 2008 (yes, 2008) sauvignon blanc ($27), most of it grown on a Waihopi Valley hillside and part of it barrel-fermented, is not designed to clear the sinuses but to charm the palate.

Its about texture, style and lingering flavours. My kind of sauvignon.

The hand-made 2007 Churton Marlborough Pinot Noir ($40) is also sophisticated stuff silken savoury, with a long, gamey, earthy finish. Nothing dumb about these.

- © Fairfax NZ News

16 comments
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Hilda   #16   12:46 am Sep 11 2009

A bit off the topic but I agree with Cyril's comment - I grew up on a vineyard, have lost my Mum and sister to cancer and my Dad has also had cancer. My other sister has significant digestive and health issues. It feels like there is a lot we don't know about the negative impact of sprays - fungicides and herbicides - being used to grow grapes.

winegrower   #15   11:46 am Sep 10 2009

Wine like most indulgences to do with the senses has developed into an art form. The "dumbing down of wine" refers to the "industrialisation" of this product.Just as you can have a Mcdonalds anywhere in the world and it invariably tastes the same, so it is for wine when it is made by "chemistry". The art is in the skill of the Vitner not the Wine Critic. In the vineyard for example,the point at which you pick the grape and subsequent taste is a major factor. Wine grapes are not just picked based on sugar levels alone. As for the correspondents who consider wine appreciation as pretentious,I wonder what they would choose if offered the choice of a free highly aclaimed wine or a free bottle of cheap plonk.I suspect we would then see that their arguement is really a question of price

Arthur   #14   10:37 am Sep 10 2009

Dumbing down of wine? Wine was smart? Yeah right! More like the de-mystifying, stripping away the pompous snobbery and having to go with commercial reality in the modern world. Gone are the days of moneyed snobs spouting rubbish about wine to confuse the working classes. No, wine will have to move with the times. Wine's popularity has brought it to a wider audience and, heaven help the poor darlings of the wine industry, they'll have to cater to its commercial reality if they want to make money. However, that does not mean polluting wine with additives and indulging in this genetically modified nonsense is acceptable. As to China, if they can make good wine without polluting it or adding stuff like melamine, good for them. Anything that breaks the traditional wine growing countries' stranglehold on perceived quality is probably a good thing. Remember, 50 years ago NZ wine was a European wine world joke. Now who is laughing?

winegrower   #13   08:46 am Sep 10 2009

Depends on whether you consider wine as a fruit drink with alcohol in it or something a bit more subtle.Perhaps some of the correspondents might remember that the NZ wine industry makes a significant contriburion to the NZ economy and is growing even in difficult times. I doubt that the popularity of our wine is solely due to snob appeal. Competing against third world countries with cheaper labour and lower quality standards is always going to be a challenge

cyril   #12   12:18 am Sep 10 2009

chinese wine malborough wine if you knew about the type of chemical useage involved especially malborough where I live, you wouldn't go near it.Cancer from bad sprays is not fun.

Russell   #11   06:34 pm Sep 09 2009

I agree with Chris,in the book "The Drunkard's Walk" some of these blind taste tests are reported,most wine or spirits "experts" didn't score any better than chance.Some people claimed to be able to distinguish one vodka brand from another,which is hilarious really, as this spirit is designed to be as tasteless as possible.

John   #10   05:12 pm Sep 09 2009

When I'm tired of water, OJ or Coke I'll have a glass of white wine for a change as long as it's cheap and comes in a box. Don't mind what sort. Hate red, always tastes sour and foul.

Toni   #9   02:33 pm Sep 09 2009

My favourite wine is cheap and fizzy so i'm probably not the most valid commenter. I think its not about being snobby - there is something very special about something grown - and crafted into a flavour of its own without adding in a whole heap of other stuff. Goes for more than just wine.

Paula   #8   01:10 pm Sep 09 2009

I would prefer they just leave things as they are. But I guess things move on. But I don't like the idea of "genetically modified to change a wine's taste and producers will add artificial flavourings to create wines in a style that consumers want."

Why do they have to keep playing around with what is already great wine? I don't want artificial cr*p in my wine.

josh   #7   10:30 am Sep 09 2009

I personally don't see how know a wine by name is a "dumbing down".

Perfectly good wine region can produce a substandard wine. A good wine is based on personal taste in my opinion. eg I like a Marlborough sav, but I know of "brands" I prefer and those that are not in my preference.

To be honest I think the entire industry is getting too head strong in traditional ways. A quality wine is a quality wine were ever it came from. I recommend they watch out they don't end up a relic like the British gentry, after years of snobbery.

elitism will always exist, but it wont float the many many winery's popping up allover the show.


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