In Season - Asparagus

Asparagus spears are everywhere. They stalk across magazine covers, are being bundled into supermarkets and are sprouting up on cafe menus.

This is their time of year and Witt chef and tutor John Hudson is making the most of the tender stems by giving them a good grilling, blanching and baking them and then throwing them into a spring vegetable stew.

The 45-year-old loves using the freshest ingredients available to create fast-and-easy meals for the family.

"We have got this wonderful breadbasket of food that's just out there waiting to be cooked. I didn't really realise that until I was cooking in London, where food was so expensive. I remember paying 50p for a kiwifruit and then I came home and found they were giving away kiwifruit in Tauranga."

John completed his chef apprenticeship at age 20 and was teaching by the time he was 24. He now has a master's degree in education.

"I have five passions in my life and they all start with F: my faith, my family, friends, football and food. And I regard my students as my friends, so that's my teaching covered, as well."

The father of two leads a busy life, which is why he and wife Nuala opt for speedy feeds.

"We do most of our cooking in a window of 15 minutes at home and my wife does most of the cooking."

Asparagus fits these needs, especially when grilled.

"We do everything crunchy."

Salmon steaks, dill and lemon hollandaise and vine-ripened tomatoes cooked slowly in the oven to release their flavours go wonderfully with the green stalks.

"Tomatoes can be prepared in advance and gently warmed through before serving."

The asparagus and blue cheese tart is best made with either Kapiti's Kikorangi Blue or Okato Stony Blue. John prefers the local cheese.

"That's the one I love to use - I have fallen in love with it. It also goes with tender beef fillet and blackberry jus."

Back to the tart, John says people can either make four small versions or a big one in a flan dish, depending on their needs.

"I like to put in a little bit of cream instead of milk - it gives it richness."

Finally, the asparagus and broad bean vignole is all about what's in season.

"This dish is really a celebration of anything green that's coming up in the garden. There's nothing more fulfilling than growing things and picking the produce of your garden and taking it straight into your kitchen to use."

He says vignole is a Roman term for a braised stew of young spring vegetables.

"It's a great excuse to use some culinary licence to add to this dish."

This spring medley is a great accompaniment for a roast, especially lamb, but also goes well with grilled beef or pork. It's definitely the time of year to get wielding those asparagus spears.

 

FOOD FACT The Greeks may have been the first people to cultivate asparagus, 2500 years ago. They also named asparagus, which means stalk or shoot. The Greeks believed asparagus was a herbal medicine that, among other things, would cure toothaches and prevent bee stings.

Seared Salmon with Grilled asparagus and Dill Hollandaise

Serves 4

4 x 250g salmon steak

Salt and pepper for seasoning

32 spears of fresh asparagus

12 vine-ripened tomatoes

1 Tbsp olive oil

1/ Place tomatoes in a lightly greased ovenproof dish and slow roast on 130[Degree] for about one hour.

2/ Trim asparagus.

3/ Season salmon steaks.

4/ In a robust griddle pan, if available, or a saute pan, heat oil until very hot. Place the salmon non-skin side down first to colour. Cook for four minutes on each side, then place on an oven-proof tray in a moderate oven (180[Degree]) for 6-10 minutes, depending on how rare or cooked you like your salmon.

5/ Wipe your stove and your pan - you'll need to! Heat the pan and grill the asparagus. When wilted, place eight spears of asparagus on each plate with a salmon steak. Put three tomatoes on top of the spears and drizzle with Hollandaise. Serve.

Lemon and Dill Hollandaise

6 crushed peppercorns

1 Tbsp vinegar

2 egg yolks

250g butter

Salt and cayenne pepper for seasoning

Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon

1 tsp chopped fresh dill (can use oregano or basil instead)

1/ Place peppercorns and vinegar in small pan and reduce to one third. Add lemon zest and juice, allow to cool.

2/ Using a whisk, mix in yolks and return to gentle heat. Whisk continuously until mixture forms a sabayon (thickens and will coat the back of a spoon). Remove from heat and cool slightly.

3/ Gradually mix in melted, warm butter until thoroughly combined.

4/ Season with salt and cayenne pepper to taste. Add a little more lemon juice to thin if necessary. Last of all, add herbs. Keep at warm temperature until served.

Asparagus and Blue Cheese Tart

Serves 4

3 eggs

1/4 cup cream

1/4 cup finely chopped onion.

100g fresh asparagus

75g roughly crumbled Kikorangi Blue or Okato Stony Blue cheese

50g grated cheddar cheese

Seasoning

1/ Preheat oven to 180[Degree]. Line either a 20cm flan case or four 10cm individual cases with short pastry (see separate recipe) and trim neatly. If using ready-made pastry, you may have to use one-and-a-half sheets (cut the extra piece and overlay with a little egg yolk and water mix). Rest in fridge for 15 minutes.

2/ Trim asparagus and cut each spear into thirds. Blanch, drain and set aside to cool.

3/ In a jug, mix beaten eggs, cream, onions and cheese together, then season.

4/ Pour into case or cases - they should be 3/4 full.

5/ Place asparagus and blue cheese attractively through the tart or tarts.

6/ Place into preheated oven. Cook for about 30 minutes until set and lightly browned. (If it browns too quickly and before the pastry cooks, loosely cover with foil).

Short Pastry

2 cups standard flour

1/4 tsp salt

125g s butter

Cold water

1/ Sift flour and salt together.

2/ Rub in butter until it reaches sandy texture.

3/ Mix to stiff dough with a little water.

4/ Roll out very lightly, making sure you don't handle any more than is necessary. Line pastry tin or tins.

Asparagus and Broad Bean Vignole

Serves 4 to 6 as a side vegetable

1 bunch of asparagus

1 leek

500g new season (baby) potatoes

250g broad beans (fresh or frozen)

1 small onion, roughly diced

300ml vegetable stock

2 Tbsp olive oil

1 small bunch (1/2 cup) mint leaves, sliced

1/ Wash and trim asparagus, cut into thirds.

2/ Cut leek in half lengthways, then wash, drain and slice.

3/ Wash potatoes and cut into quarters.

4/ In a medium-large saucepan, heat the oil, add the leek and onion, cook for 5 or 6 minutes until softened.

5/ Add the potatoes and stock, simmer for about 10 minutes.

6/ Add the beans and asparagus, and cook for another 5 minutes.

7/ Last of all add mint, finish with a seasoning of salt and freshly ground pepper. Goes well with chicken breasts or even a roast chicken.

- © Fairfax NZ News