Berried treasure

Summer is stuttering towards us and the scent of strawberries is in the air.

Strawberries belong to the rose family, which explains the fragrance. Those who like fragrance in their food might like to add a few drops of rose water to a bowl of the berries; others, might take a step on the dark side and dip strawberries in melting chocolate, or sprinkle with a few drops of balsamic vinegar.

As well as the taste and scent though, there are good-for-you benefits: weight for weight, strawberries contain more vitamin C than oranges.

To pick: Most cultivated strawberries are ripe when the whole berry is scarlet, pump and sweet. Never pick wet strawberries.

To buy: Turn the plastic box or punnet upside down to check for leaking from bruised/ squashed strawberries or any sign of mould before buying. Don't buy from a gate seller if you suspect the berries were picked wet. Don't buy or pick strawberries that have broad streaks of green or have very pale shoulders; they won't ripen further, but will go soft.

To prepare: Brush, or wash, and hull just before eating. Never soak strawberries in water, they will be rendered flavourless.

To serve: Cut large berries into lengthwise slices, or halves (keep the heart shape whenever possible), otherwise serve whole. Flavour companions for strawberries include orange juice, orange zest, balsamic vinegar, ground black peppercorns, icing sugar, melted chocolate, dairy products (soft cheeses, icecream, cream, creme fraiche, mascarpone), fresh mint, brandy, and rose water.

Meringue and strawberry roulade

This classic dessert is such a good-looker it's hard to believe it is so easy to make.

4 egg whites

225g caster sugar*

250g strawberries

250-300ml cream

2 tsp icing sugar

Optional:

100g fresh raspberries

2-4 mint leaves, finely chopped

Icing sugar for dusting

Preheat oven to 180deg C. Line a sponge- roll tin (or 30cm x 20cm shallow baking tin) with baking paper or cooking foil and brush with a light cooking oil to grease). Allow an overhang at both ends of the tin to assist the roulade's removal.

Put egg whites in a large mixing bowl. If using a food mixer, whisk slowly at first, then increase speed and add all the sugar at once. Increase to full speed and beat until the mixture is stiff. If using a hand- beater, beat the whites to a fluff, then add the caster sugar gradually, beating vigorously until the meringue stands in stiff peaks.

Spread over the lined tin and bake for 15-20 minutes. To turn out, upend the tin over greaseproof paper, give it a decent thump and it should turn out neatly. If it needs a little encouragement, gently pull the overhangs. Leave to cool.

Hull, clean and slice the strawberries. Add the icing sugar to the cream and beat until thick. Fold most of the sliced strawberries into the cream. Spread over the cold roulade. If using the raspberries, scatter over the mixture. Roll the filled roulade up from the short end and use a cake slice or similar to slide onto the serving plate. Scatter the remaining strawberries and the finely chopped mint leaves, if using, over the top and dust with icing sugar. Cut into slices to serve.

* If caster sugar is not available, put the amount of white sugar in the food processor blender and whizz until the granules are fine. Take care not to overmix to a powder.