Nice nectarines

NOW'S GOOD: Nectarines.

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As with peaches and apricots, nectarines are best when picked ripe and ready from the tree, or bought as near as possible to the orchard that grew and picked the fruit.

Each year nectarines have seemed to be earlier and less ripe than last year's crop, but this month the varieties in-store include a delectable golden fleshed nectarine that although firm has plenty of juice. There is no way of knowing which variety this is as growers and retailers alike prefer to keep us in ignorance of named varieties of anything (although potato growers are realising many consumers like to know more than "good for mashing" etc and are gradually providing variety names). My fruit came in a plastic box labelled New Zealand nectarines and the bar code provided a vendor number, which is progress - of a sort. The skin was flushed rosy with some fruit showing a deep red. The stones were easily winkled out or cut around. They were bruise-free and blemish-free.

To store: nectarines soften at room temperature, but will not ripen further. However, the flavour improves if they are left at room temperature (in a sunny spot, preferably) for a day before serving.

In relishes and chutneys, diced nectarines keep their shape, and biting into the fleshy pieces produces mounds of surprise.

To eat raw: cut flesh into dice and sprinkle generously with freshly ground black pepper; leave to stand for an hour then dress with lemon-based vinaigrette and scatter over a little finely diced lemon flesh. Serve as a salsa with ham or chicken.

To cook: nectarines are good with almonds, vanilla pods, cardamom, red and white wines. Instead of simmering in the usual sugar syrup, try poaching slices of fresh nectarines in light red wine. Remove fruit when tender, reduce liquid by half, then chill. Pour the cold syrup over the fruit to serve.

Nigel Slater's baked nectarines with almond crust T

This rough, buttery almond crust also works with peaches and apricots. Scatter it over the halved and stoned fruit just before baking. Serves 4. From The Observer.

4 ripe nectarines

50g shelled almonds

50g caster sugar

45g butter S

et the oven at 180degC.

Wipe the peaches or nectarines and cut them in half. Tug out the stone, then place the halved fruits cut-side up in a shallow baking dish. Put the almonds in a food processor - there is no need to skin them - and blitz them. They should be somewhere between gravel and traditional ground almonds. (You just want them to lend a crunch to the soft fruit.) Add the sugar and butter and briefly continue to mix. Spoon the almond mixture on top of the nectarines and bake for 45 minutes or until the fruit is melting soft and the top is crisp. An occasional basting with the buttery juices can only help.

- © Fairfax NZ News