Creative wine labels vie for market share

BY DEBORAH WALTON & PETER MORICE

The Watcher is another new wine label on the shelves and it is worth watching out for, as the sauvignon blanc is really rather good.

People living in the Awatere may well know Peter and Georgie Barnes, Kieran Hickman and his partner Michelle Cassidy.

We spoke to Peter before Christmas when excitement was running high over the release of these wines, which were born on the back of what seemed a good idea.

"We discussed the prospect of creating an all-local wine with a label reflecting its origins," he says. "The first goal was achieved by sourcing fruit for both varieties [sauvignon blanc and pinot gris] from good long-time Awatere family vineyards. From this point we spoke with a winemaker friend...who was keen to be a part of the project."

With the wine being made, these people had to go through the steep learning curve of working with graphic designers, dealing with barcoding, trademarks, bottling, storage and marketing. The name The Watcher is dramatic, in keeping with the name's origins. Bringing the label to life began with a round of good old-fashioned fun – barbecue gatherings and the sharing of ideas.

The group decided to build a name around the mountain peak Tapuae-o-Uenuku, or Tappy, as it is more prosaically known by locals.

At 2885 metres, Tappy is the highest peak in New Zealand outside of the Southern Alps.

Tappy is the dramatic backdrop to people's lives in the Awatere.

The mountain had been documented as The Watcher by Captain James Cook who, on his early voyages, noted its commanding presence visible from his ship from many points along the Pacific coast.

Out of curiosity The Watcher Sauvignon Blanc was entered into the 2009 Air New Zealand Wine Awards, where it was awarded a bronze medal.

These people embarked on something of a business adventure which they intend to continue in the coming years. They're currently working on expanding distribution, and say that after all the initial effort they're looking forward to making The Watcher a wine to watch out for. It is a brave move in an already crowded marketplace.

The Watcher Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 09

Aroma: Classic Awatere – a blend of passionfruit, capsicum and sharper gooseberry notes, supported by some herbal and mineral aromas. There's a lovely dash of lime in here too.

Taste: A powerful, mouth-filling wine, there's a brisk tingle at the start and the pungency enjoyed in the aroma is an integral part of what you discover on the palate. The opening salvo soon gives way to some lovely lime, herbal and tropical/red capsicum flavours. The wine softens and becomes rounder at mid-palate and there's some spicy warmth towards the finish.

The finish and aftertaste are crisp and lingering. An easy-drinking wine with plenty to offer. Price: Great buying at $15 and it has been seen around town for less.

Church Road Hawke's Bay Chardonnay 08

Aroma: Peach and nectarine aromas are enhanced by those malo notes that make chardonnay such a fabulous wine – butter, bran biscuits, cashews and some gentle oak. Some light, floral notes add interest.

Taste: A wine with a spicy bite and some firm acid and a light wash of peach, cashew and pastry flavours.

We tried this wine twice, once upon opening and again later when it had had some time to breathe, because Church Road chardonnay is usually a more intensely flavoured wine than what we were experiencing. The difference after some time without that screw cap clamped on tight was amazing. Intense, mouth-filling with plenty of rich fruity stone fruit, this complex wine wrapped up with a myriad of magnificent malo characteristics – rewarding toffee, biscuity, creamy flavours with a hint of spiciness in the aftertaste. Now that's what we expected.

Price: $26, and good buying.

Lawson's Dry Hills Marlborough

Gewurztraminer 08

This wine also improved after being opened a few hours – with screw caps comes the need for a jug or decanter if you're serious about getting the most out of a bottle of wine.

Aroma: Rose petals and Turkish delight, some rich lemon and a powerful whiff of apricot. Intensely lifted and fragrant.

Taste: A soft, elegant example displaying some pleasant ginger and apricot flavours along with the typical lychee and rose petal Turkish delight notes we all love in this variety.

The finish is fairly concentrated and delivers some lip-smacking sweetness which is always pleasing. This wine wasn't as intensely flavoured as other vintages but we felt it had enough merit to be worth a recommendation.

Price: $27-$28.

Brown Brothers Victoria Merlot 06

A handsome, garnet-coloured wine showing flashed of terracotta, quite inky in the glass.

Aroma: Eucalyptus, tar, chocolate and ripe plums with some lovely port-like overtones.

Taste: Big on alcohol, this powerful first impression soon gives way to some soft tannin, gently fruitiness and interesting woody notes. The taste of cloves comes through mid-palate and the eucalypt taste is obvious towards the finish. Fine grained, nicely integrated with a port-like quality out to the finish.

Price: A good one for the red wine drinker to try – great value at $18.95.

- The Marlborough Express