The delectable oyster

BY GRAHAM HAWKES

It cannot be debated! The Bluff oyster will hold its own when compared to any other oyster in the world.

It is distinct in its fresh and full flavour, which I believe is due to the cold and clear waters of the Foveaux Strait.

While the species, also known as mud oysters or flat oysters, is found in many parts of New Zealand, it is far more common here in the deep south.

Commercially gathered since the early 1860s, firstly around Stewart Island, the oyster quickly gained its popularity. Back then the gatherers simply beached the cutters on the beds of the oyster at high tide and as the tide dropped the oysters were shovelled on board.

The oysters were than taken across to Bluff for distribution.

Unfortunately, the beds were quickly depleted and by the late 1870s those beds were closed.

Following the discovery of more plentiful beds around 1890 the industry moved to its present home in Bluff, where for several decades the world's freshest sex symbol was available in plentiful supply throughout the season.

That was up until 1963 when the oyster gatherers came under a quota system with the limit back then set at 170,000 sacks a season.

With about 800 oysters per sack that allowed somewhere around 45 oysters per person in New Zealand per season.

At that time there were 12 boats based in Bluff dredging for the delicacy.

The quota decreased through to 1970 when the 23 boats in the fleet were able to dredge just 115,000 sacks or around 90 million oysters, allowing for just two dozen oysters per person in New Zealand.

I get a real kick listening to the great stories from older folk relating to their trips to Bluff at the start of the oyster season to bring home sufficient oysters for the family to feast on.

Great stories, with the delicacy being washed down by flagons of Whitty's ale while the oysters were being opened on the back of Bradford and early Bedford flat-decked trucks and the copious supply there was of them.

In my secondary school days I well remember purchasing preserving jars of oysters for just 10 bob a jar from the lads who came up on the Bluff train.

The Bluff boys would slip down after school and gather the loose oysters lying around the decks of the boats (and probably a few others as well) race home and open them, place them in the jars and bring them to school for sale the next day.

They had quite a lucrative little business going, which was greatly appreciated by the likes of moire who by rolling papers at the Southland Daily News after school at the time could well afford the 10 bob and take the delicacy home for the eagerly awaiting family to devour.

The big thing to remember for those who prefer their oysters other than natural is the oyster requires no cooking per se. It is simply a matter of warming the delicacy through, therefore one must take great care not to overheat or "cook" the oyster and completely spoil it.

There are many such ways of preparing the oyster other than natural, such as Kilpatrick, mornay, battered, crumbed etc. And a favourite of mine is one that was introduced to me by my good friend Chub, with bacon and Worcestershire sauce in a toasty pie. For those who enjoy them fried please remember you need to have a reasonably heavy batter or coating on the oyster. That way the batter will cook and crisp up during the cooking process while only warm the oyster inside.

So for all those who prefer their oyster other than natural try the following this week. They will be as crisp and fresh as you will ever have enjoyed an oyster and simply serve with fresh lemon, a tossed green salad and warm crunchy bread or a little dipping sauce.

RECIPE: For the batter

• 1/2 cup buttermilk (available from Happy Valley Dairies at Southern Farmer's Market)
• 1 tsp lemon zest
• 1/2 cup cornflour
• 1/2 cup self-rising flour
• Good pinch of sea salt

 

For the coating

• 1 cup cornmeal (polenta)
• 1 cup panko crumbs (Japanese coarse white breadcrumbs available at supermarkets)

 

Method: Drain the oysters and lightly pat dry, saving all the juice for your oyster soup.

Add the cornflour, lemon zest, flour and salt to the buttermilk and mix to create a smooth batter.

Mix the cornmeal and the panko crumbs together.

Pass the oysters through the batter and then into the crumb coating mix, using one hand for the wet and one hand for the dry mixtures.

Toss the oysters through the coating mix until well coated then place on a paper towel ready for cooking.

Heat sufficient rice bran oil to 190degC in a heavy-based pan and once you have reached that temperature cook the oysters in small batches until crisp on the outside, then place on paper towels to drain.

Repeat until all the oysters have been cooked.

Serve in your favourite manner.

- © Fairfax NZ News