Dessert wine a double champion

BY DEBORAH WALTON AND PETER MORICE

Montana is bubbling with enthusiasm right now. This time, it's over the first advertisement for Montana Marlborough sauvignon blanc, which went to air in New Zealand on February 20 and in Australia on February 21.

The advertisement was a milestone for Australia, with Montana being the first New Zealand wine brand to appear on Australian TV.

The advert is part of a global campaign that will include broadcasts in Britain and online around the world.

In other news, Konrad Sigrun Noble Two 2007 has been awarded a trophy for Champion Dessert Wine at the recent Sydney International Top 100 awards presentation, held at Sydney's Shangri-La Hotel.

Konrad Wines managing director and viticulturist Konrad Hengstle, and his wife, Sigrun, attended the awards dinner to accept the trophy.

Konrad later said: "This style of wine demands food probably more than any other wine in order to balance the inherent richness.

"Having this wine therefore judged on the basis of its compatibility with food (in this case a cheesecake and strawberry dish), which is the objective of the show, and consistently doing well confirms that what we are doing in the vineyard and in our winemaking is right, which is very satisfying but also a relief."

Konrad says that making botrytis wine is high risk, but if you love making, drinking and selling it, you accept the risk factor. And the awards certainly help.

This is the second time the Sigrun Noble Two has received the show's Dessert Wine Trophy, with the 2001 vintage taking the trophy in 2003.

In fact, there is an impressive history of medal winning for Konrad at this show with four vintages since 1999 being awarded Blue Gold, as well as selected for Top 100 Best in the Show.

The 2008 vintage of the same wine, now on the market, was given the "highly recommended" status and, according to winemaker Jeff Sinnott, has class equal to the 2007 and just needs a little more time.

Sigrun Noble Two is a complementary blend of riesling and sauvignon blanc that has only been made three times, in 2004, 2007 and 2008.

Konrad says vintage 2009 might be suitable for a blend, but it is a little early to tell.

The fruit for this wine is selectively hand harvested for about four weeks from family-owned Waihopai Valley sites. The fruit is picked at an average of 45 brix.

Once harvested, the riesling is fermented in stainless-steel tanks to retain the luscious fruit characters typical of the variety (lemon, lime, ripe apple – but tending towards honey, floral and beeswax when the botrytis concentrates the sugars). The sauvignon blanc component is barrel fermented in French oak. After fermentation of about 12 months, the two components are blended to produce a dessert style wine.

On the three times the blend has been made, the riesling has made up the high 50 per cent and the sauvignon blanc the low 40 per cent (the blend in the 2008 vintage is 58 per cent riesling, 42 per cent sauvignon blanc).

Konrad has made dessert wines since 1999 and has only missed one year, 2005, because of a lack of botrytised fruit. Apart from the three vintages when a blend has been made, the others have been noble riesling.

Konrad Sigrun Noble Two Riesling Sauvignon Blanc 07

Colour: Old gold.

Aroma: Ripe and rich with honeyed mandarin and marmalade notes, toffee apple and juicy pineapple. There is a floral whiff and some lovely warm dustiness – all very appealing.

Taste: A wine that delivers on all fronts – from the rich, thick unctuous mouth feel to the complex blend of ripe apricot, marmalade-mixed peel and beeswax flavours.

There is a dash of soft mineral that provides fine balance, while the finish becomes syrupy, with some sweet lemon and caramel richness. The citrus flavour provides just enough crispness to stop this wine from becoming cloying. The aftertaste is very long and its vibrant nature begs another taste.

Best described as dessert in a glass, it might be made to match with food, but we found it easy to drink and enjoy in its own right.

Price: Very highly recommended; $26.50.

Konrad Sigrun Noble Two Riesling Sauvignon Blanc 2008

Colour: Gold.

Aroma: Intense honeyed lemon, mandarin, pineapple with some lovely flinty notes. Waxy, perfumed, exotic – lush.

Taste: True to its aroma, this wine has an intense, complex palate that combines the richness of soft caramel with honeyed lemon, mandarin and some lovely floral aromatics. The rich flavours are supported by some gentle flintiness and acid that provides fine balance. The finish and aftertaste reward with apricot, shortbread and a lick of sweet apple.

Price: Excellent buying at $26.60. This wine is gorgeous now, but will be absolutely stunning in a few years, so put some away now, while you can get it.

Food match: We thought it was perfect with aged Kikorangi Blue cheese or a rich, finely grained pate, especially duck.

- The Marlborough Express