The seasonal switch to red

CHEERS: Barton on Wine

BY WARREN BARTON

Why, at this time of the year, do we turn to warm and cuddly red wines? The most obvious explanation is, I guess, because of the weather. The days are getting shorter and colder, Already there are frosts and fog, and very soon there will be more snow.

It simply makes more sense to reach for reds instead of whites, which are almost always served too cold anyway.

But it's only part of the reason that most of us who have learned to appreciate red, as well as white wines, make the seasonal switch. Having done this, we also appreciate that wines exist for food and what we eat during the colder months is more suited to red wine.

Not only that, but our food tastes have changed dramatically during the past few years.

We are now exposed to, and enjoy a greater variety of, more foods that match this season. Likewise with wines, including many red wines we have never tried before, that are traditionally poured with some of these dishes.

It wasn't till quite recently, for instance, that I tried a light Beaujolais-style red with tomato soup and was pleasantly surprised to discover what the French have known for years – it works. The same with Grenache, known in Spain as garnacha which, at its beefy, peppery best, deals beautifully with herbs in rustic red meat dishes. In Australia it is mostly blended with shiraz and mouvedre to produce what is popularly known as GSM and is great with real blokes' tucker – the mixed grill.

It also follows that if you are eating Italian food, and many of their great pasta and spaghetti dishes are ideal winter fare, you go for Italian wines – dolcetto, barbera, montepulciano; middleweight Chianti with creamy, cheesy sauces, and the juiciest versions of sangiovese with meat sauces.

It's the same with Spanish dishes. Look to garnahca, tempranillo and monastrell (mouvedre) or blends that feature these wines. Carmenere, from Chile, which can be used as you would merlot and malbec particularly from Argentina, is a natural for rare meats, strong flavours and roasted vegetables.

Many of these varieties are also being trialed or produced in this country where we more commonly produce and enjoy merlot, the cabernets, syrah/shiraz, Bordeaux-style blends using all three, and pinot noir.

And let's not forget that most of these wines, including many of the newcomers, can be used and are used simply as winter warmers.

A selection:

Penfolds Rawson's Retreat 2008 Shiraz Cabernet (about $12 to $13): A soft and easy-drinking beginners' red with plenty of spice and berry. Great value for money, as is the slightly more expensive Koonunga Hill.

Red Metal 2008 Merlot Cabernet Franc ($14 to $19): Red Metal, in Hawke's Bay, specialises in merlot-based wines and this is one of their most popular. The latest release is typically soft and juicy, easy to drink, and a bargain at this price.

Armantes 2007 Old Bush Vine Garnacha (about $15 to $17): A succulent Spanish grenache that smacks of raspberries and black cherries and has a pleasantly spicy, warm earthy character. Ideal with pasta.

Concha y Toro 2008 Casillero del Diablo Carmenere (about $18): One of the several brands of this Chilean favourite now available in New Zealand. A lovely supple, succulent, plums and berries wine with a sprinkle of herbs and spice.

Cecchi 2008 Chianti (about $20): If it's sangiovese you want then why not have it in its best known form – from the Chianti region where the bottle is traditionally surrounded by a wicker basket. A lovely whiff of violets. Easy drinking.

Craggy Range Gimblett Gravels Syrah ($30): This delicious wine is a steal and will warm the cockles of the heart. Dark fruits, a lick of chocolate and syrah's trademark pepper. Drink now or later.

- © Fairfax NZ News