Citrus cheer beats winter grey

BY KATE FRASER

We've gone past the shortest day but the long last stretch of winter is, as ever, trial by cold. Bitter frosts followed by dank grey days are misery doubled.

If it wasn't for the spiky splurge of oranges, lemons, limes and grapefruit scenting the kitchen I might give into Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD).

It always seems to me a horticultural miracle that fruit so synonymous with the sunlight is at its best in the cold-weather season.

Just the sight of brave little lemons all perky on the bush by the kitchen door is cheering. The kumquats are sulking, alas, but I'm not bothered – the vegetable markets are brimming with bins of fresh citrus promising fruity feasts for all.

The elusive sweet-sour flickflack of citrus flavour has the ability to enhance humdrum ingredients and transform familiar dishes into something altogether grander. Whether in sauces and salads, with fish, poultry or meat, or in puddings, splashes of citrus cheer the soul.

Some of this week's recipes come from the test kitchens of food writing colleagues in Australia and the United States. Citrus enjoys universal approval.

Lemon delicious pudding

Use butter to lightly grease an ovenproof pudding dish.

Heat oven to 180 degrees Celsius.

60g soft butter

180g sugar

2 heaped tsp lemon zest

3 eggs, separated

30g self-raising flour

180ml milk

1 Tbsp cream

80ml lemon juiceBoil the kettle. Cream butter and sugar until light and creamy. Beat in lemon zest. Add the egg yolks one at time, beating between additions.

Fold in the flour a little at time, alternating with glugs of milk and finally the cream. Whisk to a smooth batter then stir in the lemon juice (the mixture will separate; this is normal). Beat the egg whites until they form firm but not stiff peaks.

Use a metal spoon and gently fold into the batter; about a quarter of the whisked whites at a time. Place this mixture in the oven dish, and put that dish in a deepish roasting tin.

Add the hot water from the kettle to come about a third of the way up the side of the oven dish. Bake for 50-55 minutes or until the top is golden and firm to the touch.

Remove from oven and let cool a little before dusting with icing sugar. Good with whipped cream.

Orange vinaigrette

Put in a jar in this order: 2 Tbsp orange juice, 1 Tbsp balsamic vinegar, 1 tsp smooth mustard, 1/4 cup olive oil, salt and fresh black pepper. Whisk or shake well to a smooth mix. Good with roast vegetable salad.

Orange marinade and sauce for chicken

Marinade:

Grated zest and juice of large orange

2-3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

2 Tbsp olive oil

1 Tbsp cider vinegar

2-3 tsp finely chopped rosemary needles

salt and pepper

4 chicken supremes

Sauce:

2 tsp flour

Grated juice and zest of an orange

1-2 Tbsp redcurrant jelly

Rosemary for garnish

Mix marinade ingredients and put in oven bag. Add chicken supremes and cover and roll round to coat the pieces. Refrigerate for 2-4 hours.

To cook, heat oven to 200C. Put chicken and marinade in roasting dish, bake uncovered for at least an hour, or until juices run clean and skin is crispy. Remove chicken and keep warm.

Pour off juices, removing as much fat as possible. Add flour to roasting tin over low heat, scrape up any crusty bits, return cooking juices and add the fresh orange juice and zest. Stir, simmering, until thickened.

Add redcurrant jelly, salt if necessary and bring back to the simmer.

Return chicken pieces to roasting tin, glaze with sauce and serve. Good with roast yams.

More ways with oranges

Brush salmon portions on both sides with olive oil and fry in a non-stick pan over medium heat until cooked as desired.

Blanch snow peas and baby green beans briefly and refresh under cold water, drain again.

Place snow peas, green beans and thickly sliced oranges in a bowl and combine with a dressing of lemon juice, olive oil, finely grated orange zest and grated fresh ginger, to taste. Serve with salmon portions.

Thread chunks of peeled orange, peeled pineapple, and thickly sliced banana on bamboo skewers. Drizzle with honey and place under a hot grill, turning occasionally until warm. Serve with passionfruit pulp and frozen vanilla yoghurt.

Stir equal quantities of couscous and boiling water in a bowl.

Cover and rest for five minutes, then fluff up with a fork. Add finely grated orange zest, a couple of segmented oranges, sliced fresh dates and a finely chopped red onion with a handful of baby spinach leaves.

Scatter with flat-leaf parsley leaves and drizzle with olive oil. Serve with roast chicken.

LIMES

Can be used in place of lemons and vice versa, but limes are stronger flavoured so use less juice and zest than lemons. Limes are picked before they are ripe, as this is when they are fragrant and acidic.

Avoid limes that are yellowish.

Asian lime dressing

1 Tbsp fish sauce

2 Tbsp lime juice

1 tsp brown sugar. Mix to dissolve sugar.

Serve as a dipping sauce or salad or fish dressing.

Optional: Add 1/2 tsp chopped salted peanuts and a sprinkle of dried chilli flakes.

GRAPEFRUIT

Pile segmented grapefruit, sliced bananas and halved strawberries (when available) in serving glasses, topped with mascarpone mixed with icing sugar, finely grated orange zest and a few drops of vanilla extract.

Combine chunks of ripe avocado with grapefruit segments, chopped coriander, cooked king prawns and toasted pecan nuts with a dressing made with one part red wine vinegar, three parts extra virgin olive oil and dijon mustard. Serve with sourdough bread.

Enjoy a hearty breakfast by layering toasted muesli, red grapefruit segments and natural yoghurt in glasses or bowls.

Red grapefruit and fennel salad with fish fillets

A salad and fresh fish meal that is simple and seasonal. Serves 4.1-2 baby fennel

3 Tbsp lime juice

4 x 150g white fish fillets

Plain flour, for dusting

1/4cup extra virgin olive oil

2 red grapefruit, peeled and segmented

120g kalamata olives

1/4 bunch flat-leaf parsley, leaves picked

1 punnet baby tomatoes, halved Heat oven to 180C. Trim fennel and slice very finely. Place in a bowl of cold water and add one tablespoon of lime juice.

Cut each fish fillet into three pieces and dust lightly with flour. Heat half the olive oil in a large ovenproof frying pan over medium heat, add half the fish fillets, skin side down, and cook for one to two minutes until browned. Remove and repeat with remaining fish.

Return all fish to the pan, skin side up, and bake in the oven for about five minutes or until just cooked.

Meanwhile, combine drained fennel, fronds, grapefruit, olives, parsley and tomatoes in a bowl and season with salt and pepper. In a small bowl, whisk remaining lime juice and olive oil and drizzle over fennel mixture, turning to coat. Place fish on serving plates and top with grapefruit salad and juices.

- With Sydney Morning Herald, Fairfax

- © Fairfax NZ News