Martinborough not the only jewel in the Wairarapa

.

Relevant offers

Food & Wine

Alex James - what are you playing at? Raw food: what's not to love? Summery sangria packs a punch Homemade icecream a peachy pud Lentil patties a meat-free delight The curious allure of very sharp knives Dumplings for Chinese New Year The great American snack food marathon Use your noodle High carb breakfasts boost brainpower

Martinborough has become synonymous with wine from the southern part of the North Island but the Wairarapa wine region is made up of some very distinct "districts" that value their individuality.

Opaki is five kilometres north of Masterton and home to the Loopline, Matahiwi and Waipipi wine companies. Loopline was the pioneer in the Opaki area and Matahiwi has become one of the largest wine firms in the Wairarapa.

Martinborough is the most easily recognised wine district and has a climate similar to Marlborough's with cool nights and hot days over an extended ripening period.

Martinborough sits in a basin and two rivers, the Huangarua and the Ruamahanga, flow around the town, which have delivered the ideal soils for grape growing.

There are soil variations around the district which allow for the successful growing of different varieties that ripen at different times.

Most important is the finite nature of the land suitable for growing grapes in Martinborough.

Then there's Gladstone and the hinterland to the east; home to Gladstone Vineyard.

The Gladstone Vineyard was established in 1986 but it wasn't until the late 90s that I first called in for a leisurely lunch on a hot, sunny Wairarapa day. It's a lovely place to visit – the grounds are home to a gracious late 19th-century house that was trucked in from Masterton. Gladstone Vineyard's four-hectare home block is just 5km from the township of Gladstone. It was planted by Dennis Roberts and Richard Stone on the alluvial terraces that make up the old bed of the Ruamahanga River. Today the vineyard is owned and operated by Christine Kernohan.

This block has since been supplemented by another stony block of 10 hectares that's sited just a few kilometres away on Dakins Rd. The establishment of an additional vineyard led to the building of a new winery in 2006 to cope with increased production.

Gladstone Vineyard produces two brands, Gladstone and 12,000 Miles. The Gladstone label has recently undergone a makeover with Christine Kernohan saying the time was right for a change.

Gladstone Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 09

The fruit for this wine was grown at both the Dakins Rd and home blocks. The Dakins Rd block is situated on stony alluvial river soils and the home block on heavier silty loam. The home block vines are 24-years-old and Christine says the older vines contribute great texture and weight to the final wine.

Aroma: Leesy and creamy, savoury; quite different as there's none of the usual gooseberry and grass zing. Instead there are some lovely caramel and soft tropical aromas.

Taste: Firm acids and fleshy ripe fruit displaying tropical tinned pineapple and peach flavours along with a lick of creamy caramel.

A full-bodied wine with a soft palate and a lovely caramel and tropical fruit finish – those flavours contribute to a lovely aftertaste. There aren't any sharp edges here – there's just enough acid to hold things together well.

The batches of juice were kept on lees for an extended period with fortnightly stirring to promote palate weight and this is immediately obvious upon tasting. Thoroughly recommended for those who want to taste outside the (Marlborough) square.

Price: Around $24.

Seresin Memento Riesling 09

Aroma: Gentle aroma, citrusy, slightly dusty with some lovely wet river stone and flint notes.

Taste: Light, crisp, citrusy and lovely. There are some enjoyable apple and citrus flavours that wash right across the palate and there's a smack of mineral towards the finish. Things wrap up very pleasantly with a dollop of sweetness, some dusty, flinty, grassy notes and a luscious lick of sweet lemon. A low alcohol wine – 10.5 per cent, with a long aftertaste. Gorgeous.

Price: $27.50.

- The Marlborough Express