Mushroom medley

BY JAN BILTON

Writer Katherine Mansfield observed that life would be simpler "if only one could tell true love from false love as one can tell mushrooms from toadstools".

Well, New Zealanders' love affair with mushrooms is real. Mushrooms are Kiwis' fourth-most-popular "vegetable" (they're really fungi) after potatoes, tomatoes and lettuces. We spend more than $37 million annually on mushrooms.

The common white button mushroom, sometimes called champignon de Paris, is the most popular variety. The mild, woody flavour of white buttons makes them an ideal raw food with dips, in salads or as snacks. They can also be grilled, fried, sauteed and used in hot savoury dishes or sauces.

Swiss browns can vary in colour from pale tan to rich brown. They have a slightly stronger, more earthy flavour than white button mushrooms but can be used in similar ways. In Europe, they are sometimes called Italian brown. In the United States, they are known as crimini.

Flat portabello mushrooms are simply larger, more mature Swiss browns with a richer flavour. This dark, open mushroom is ideal for stuffing with savoury mixtures, then baking. They can also be sliced and grilled, fried, barbecued or stir-fried.

Store mushrooms at two to five degrees Celsius. Keep covered and away from refrigerator fans. Remove the mushrooms from plastic packaging, unless it is the specially-designed perforated plastic. Brown paper bags will absorb moisture and keep mushrooms fresher.

You don't usually need to peel cultivated mushrooms. Just wipe both the cap and stalk with a paper towel. Or use a mushroom brush. It's the "wild" field mushrooms that require washing and, sometimes, peeling.

Dried mushrooms – shiitake and porcini – are available from most good supermarkets. They add depth of flavour to recipes. Soak them in warm water for 30 minutes before use. Squeeze dry and chop – and try to use the soaking water in the same recipe, as it is full of flavour.

BRUNCH MUSHROOM STACK

2 large tamarillos

1 Tbsp brown sugar

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

4 rashers streaky bacon

4 large portabello mushrooms, stems removed

Butter or canola oil for frying

1 cup baby salad greens

1 Tbsp each: balsamic vinegar, olive oil

Peel and halve the tamarillos lengthwise. Sprinkle with brown sugar and season. Twist the lengths of streaky bacon. Grill, microwave or pan-fry until crisp.

Brush the mushrooms with melted butter or oil. Heat a little more butter or oil in a large frying pan. Pan-fry the mushrooms until just tender. Pan-fry the tamarillos at the same time, until just heated through.

Toss the salad greens in the combined vinegar and olive oil. To assemble, place the mushrooms on serving plates and top with a few salad greens, tamarillos and bacon. Great served with a garlic-flavoured hummus and toasted ciabatta. Serves 4.

VEGETARIAN MUSHROOM LASAGNE

This can be assembled the day before and baked just before serving.

300g each: eggplant, fennel bulb

4-6 Tbsp olive oil

Freshly ground salt and pepper to taste

1/4 cup (10g) dried porcini or shiitake mushrooms

3/4 cup hot water

4 shallots, diced

750g portabello mushrooms, chopped

2 tsp each: crushed garlic, chopped rosemary, thyme leaves

2 1/2 cups cheese sauce (see recipe following)

200g-225g fresh lasagne sheets

100g each: bocconcini, parmesan cheese, grated

Preheat the oven to 190C.

Peel the eggplant and dice. Thinly slice the fennel. Place in roasting pan and toss with 2-3 Tbsp olive of oil. Season. Roast for 20-30 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the eggplant is cooked and the fennel is tender.

Soak the dried mushrooms in the hot water for 30 minutes.

Heat 2-3 Tbsp of oil in a frying pan. Saute the shallots gently until softened. Add the mushrooms and saute until soft and the moisture has evaporated.

Drain the soaked porcini or shiitake, reserving the soaking water, and squeeze dry. Chop finely. Add to the frying pan with the garlic and herbs. Season.

Cut the lasagne to make 3 sheets to fit the baking dish. If thick, precook each sheet in a frying pan of simmering water until just tender.

Lightly oil a 27cm x 21cm baking dish.

Place 1 sheet of pasta on the base. Top with 1/2 the vegetables and 1/3 of the sauce. Top with another sheet of pasta, the remaining vegetables, bocconcini and another 1/3 of the sauce.

Top with the final pasta sheet and the remaining sauce. Sprinkle with the parmesan. Cover and refrigerate until ready to cook.

Preheat the oven to 190C. Bake the lasagne for 30 minutes or until cooked. Great dinner party fare served with a tossed green salad. Serves 6.

CHEESE SAUCE

50g butter

1/3 cup flour

2 cups milk

Water from the soaked mushrooms

100g tasty cheddar cheese, grated

Melt the butter in a saucepan or bowl suitable for the microwave. Stir in the flour. Combine the milk and mushroom water and gradually stir into the flour. Cook, stirring often until the sauce is very thick. Stir in the cheese.

CREAMY MUSHROOM SOUP

Avocado oil has a bright green colour and looks great drizzled over soups.

1 large onion

250g Swiss brown mushrooms

50g butter

4 Tbsp flour

2 cups each: chicken or vegetable stock, milk

Freshly ground salt and black pepper to taste

2 Tbsp each: finely chopped parsley, avocado oil

Finely dice the onion. Remove the stems from the mushrooms. Finely slice the caps. Coarsely chop the stems.

Melt 1/2 the butter in a heavy saucepan. Saute the mushroom caps until soft. Remove to one side. Add the remaining butter.

Saute the mushroom stems and onion until softened. Sprinkle in the flour and cook for 3 minutes, stirring.

Slowly stir in the stock. Bring to the boil and simmer gently for 30 minutes. Puree the mixture in a blender or food processor or rub through a sieve.

Return to the saucepan. Add the milk, salt and pepper and the cooked, sliced mushroom caps. Heat through. Serve sprinkled with the parsley and drizzled with a little of the avocado oil. Serves 4.

MUSHROOM TOPPING FOR CROSTINI

Dried porcini or shiitake mushrooms can be added to the mushroom mix. Soak in warm water for 30 minutes, squeeze dry then chop.

2-3 Tbsp olive oil

3 shallots, diced

5 cups finely chopped mixed mushrooms, e.g. Swiss brown, white button, shiitake (if available)

2 cloves garlic, crushed

1/4 cup cream

1 tsp each: finely chopped rosemary leaves, grated lemon rind

Freshly ground salt and black pepper to taste

1 cup grated mozzarella cheese

Heat the oil in a large frying pan over medium-high heat. Add the shallots. Saute for 1 minute. Add the mushrooms. Saute until beginning to brown and the juice has evaporated. Add the garlic and saute for 1 minute. Remove from the heat.

Stir in the cream, rosemary and lemon rind. Season. Cool. Mix in the cheese. This can be made two days ahead.

Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator. Preheat a grill. Top toasted crostini with heaped tablespoons of the mushroom mixture.

Place on baking trays. Grill until the cheese begins to melt and brown. Can be garnished with freshly grated parmesan cheese and chopped parsley. Serve warm as a nibble. Makes 2 cups – enough for about 30 crostini.

 

Copyright Jan Bilton

- The Marlborough Express