Spice up your life...with spices

They say variety is the spice of life but spice also gives variety and life to our food.

A little bit of spice and extra flavour can transform a dish from being good to amazing.

However, the blending and adding of spice can be tricky and if not careful can have the opposite effect.

Rule of thumb: "Little by little" measuring and writing down the amounts added.

I regretted not doing this once when making a staff meal of kumara and coconut cream curry in a restaurant called La Spaghettata in Wellington.

One of those times when a bit of this and a bit of that seemed to do the job. The dish itself was fantastic. The flavours of the curry mix swirling around the mouth hitting every little taste bud like a pinball machine and leaving us craving another hit. No matter how many times I tried to recreate that recipe -- it was more like tilting the machine and putting the ball out of play. So, lesson learned and nowadays when playing with spices I try to keep a record — of some description.

At this time of year when the days are at their longest and food prices sky rocketing, the addition of a few basic spices such as cumin, coriander, clove, ginger, paprika, cinnamon, turmeric, chilli and fennel can take your palate to anywhere in the world.

During winter it is also an opportune time to look at different food items that we may not usually use or cheaper cuts of meat and vegetables.

Today's recipe uses a relatively cheap cut of meat — venison shank braised in curry spices.

Not surprisingly the cheaper cuts of meat such as shank, brisket and oxtail get a rough deal because they need a lot longer to cook, are tough and require more preparation.

But in fact, they are the most flavoursome and lend themselves to the slower methods of cookery, while absorbing the added spices and producing rich, tender dishes.

The classic example is lamb shanks often referred to as dog tucker, when once the thought that anyone in their right mind wouldn't even consider eating them. Now they are found on the menu in just about any restaurant regardless of class or distinction.

In many countries the use of spices are an essential part of the cook's kitchen and the daily ritual of cooking. The grinding and mashing of dried seeds, roots and leaves into powders and paste seems in many ways exotic.

But to many an integral part of life that stimulates and entices the senses, bringing some of the more mundane items of food to life and used in more practical ways to preserve meats from deterioration and food spoilage.

If you wish to purchase spices and blends it pays to visit the markets if you are in larger centres — as the costs are a lot cheaper.

With a few base ingredients there are a multitude of blends that can be made and stored. If using dry spices, the best practice is to grind whole spices as and when required — the flavours are much more pronounced than powder form — then store in an airtight container.

For wet pastes, the best method is to be stored in an airtight container in the fridge or in a cool dry environment. When cooking with spices refrain from intense direct heat as this may "burn" the spice and result in a bitter after-taste.

Recently, the Deer Industry Association held its annual conference in Invercargill at the Ascot Park Hotel. The format of one the dinners was to serve an entree-size dish of cervena (New Zealand-farmed venison) to the delegates, based on a selected theme. The team from the Ascot served, for one of the dishes, neck fillet with tandoori spices, once again using a lesser used cut with a traditional Indian spice blend.

Marc Buissink from Fonterra served seared tenderloin with dhukkah crust.

Our dish (from the Southern Institute of Technology) was based around today's recipe with a slight twist, using a swede relish instead.

Overall, it was a great night but also highlighted the diversity that can be created with a little imagination.

BRAISED VENISON SHANK WITH CURRY SPICES

Spice mix ingredients:

• 2 whole cloves
• 1 cinnamon quill
• 1/4 tsp cardamom seeds
• 2 bay leaves
• 1 tsp coriander seeds
• 1/2 tsp fennel seeds
• 2 clove of crushed garlic
• 1/2 tsp fresh red chilli
• 2 tsp fresh ginger (crushed)
• 5 fresh curry leaves

Place cinnamon, coriander seeds, fennel seeds, cardamom and cloves in spice grinder or processor.

Remove and mix with garlic, chilli and ginger to form a paste. Reserve to be used with bay and curry leaves.

Venison shank ingredients:

• 2kg venison shank, osso bucco cut (beef or lamb is also good)
• 1/2 Tbsp tomato paste
• 6 fresh tomatoes, skinned and seeded (or tined tomato)
• 100ml olive oil
• Salt and pepper
• 2lt beef (or flavoured stock)
• 3 to 4 brown onions, sliced

To skin tomato, drop into boiling water briefly, then remove and place into bowl of cold water -- this will allow the skin to be removed easily. Cut into quarters and gently remove seeds, then cut tomato into pieces as desired.

Saute onion, in a little oil until translucent. Add curry paste and cook lightly to draw out flavour.

To cook and prepare venison shank, trim any excess fat from meat, season liberally with salt and pepper.  Lightly dust with flour, then sear in a frying pan with hot oil, to brown and give colour.

Remove from pan, place on kitchen towel-paper to remove any excess oil. Place venison shank in roasting dish with onion and curry paste, chopped tomato and stock.

Cover tray with tinfoil and cook in oven at 180degC for about 112 to 2 hours. Cooking time may vary on thickness of meat.

When meat is tender remove from oven and carefully remove bay and curry leaves. Serve with roti bread and steamed basmati rice.

Roti bread ingredients:

• 300ml warm water
• 600g plain flour
• 15g active dried yeast
• 2 tsp salt
• 100ml peanut or sesame oil

Mix flour, water, yeast and salt together, covered with a little of the oil. Leave to ferment in a warm place, covered with a damp cloth until it has started to rise.

Knock back the dough, add a little of the oil 10 to 15ml, knead and roll into balls.  Place balls back into bowl, covered until required.

Take one ball at a time and gently flatten with the base of your hand on a flat, oiled surface. Working gently until the bread starts thinning out like a pizza base. Double up the flattened bread and repeat the process.

Cook roti in heavy-based frying pan with a little oil or clarified butter until a light golden colour, turn and repeat process.

Keep warm under foil or clean tea towel.

And before I finish, thank you to the chefs and Fiona from the Curry Guru for the wonderful tastes and insights into the art of curry-making.

» Glenn Stridiron is a chef tutor at the Southern Institute of Technology.

 

- © Fairfax NZ News