The world's 100 best restaurants

JANE HOLROYD & JOANNA SAVILL
Last updated 15:17 30/04/2013
Restaurants

PROUD KIWI: NZ-born, Aussie-based chef Ben Shewry's Melbourne restaurant Attica is the top Australian listing.

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There was a significant change in the No. 1 spot at the coveted World's Best Restaurants awards, which are judged by more than 900 industry experts. Spain's El Celler de Can Roca in Girona - headed by brothers Joan, Jordi and Josep Roca - took the title of the world's best restaurant away from Denmark's Noma.

Perhaps it was the food poisoning shock at Noma in March, when dozens of diners fell ill, or the rigours of retaining

While no New Zealand restaurants made the list, a Kiwi-helmed restaurant in Melbourne, Attica, can lay claim to being Australia's best after experts shuttled the inner-suburban fine-diner to the world's No. 21 spot.

Attica is the highest placed Australian restaurant on the list and was also awarded "highest new entrant" on the coveted ranking of the world's 50 best restaurants.

In other significant shifts, Osteria Francescana in Modena, Italy jumped two spots to the No. 3 position, nudging out Spain's Mugaritz which fell one spot to No. 4, and Alex Atala's D.O.M. in Sao Paulo, Brazil, which fell two spots to sixth position.

Among the US contenders, New York City's Eleven Madison Park climbed to No. 5, shrugging off criticism this year about its move to a degustation-only style menu by Vanity Fair food critic Corby Kummer. Kummer likened the 15-course dining experience at Eleven Madison Park to being taken hostage and force-fed.

British celebrity chef Heston Blumenthal's fortunes were mixed. His London concept diner Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, the highest new-entry restaurant in the top 50 list last year, moved up two spots to seventh this year, but his more established Fat Duck restaurant in Bray slipped 20 spots to position No. 33.

For Melbourne's Attica, the good news came early when an invitation to attend the awards ceremony at London's Guild Hall revealed that the restaurant had cracked the top 50 (up from 63rd position last year). But the ranking still seems a surprise to those responsible for the restaurant's success.

Speaking at the ceremony in London, New Zealand-born Shewry was overwhelmed.

''It's hard to sum up,'' he said. ''It's full on. My mum sent me a text. It's a big journey for a small boy from Awakino,'' he added, with tears in his eyes.

''It takes time to build a reputation. But we've always done the same thing. I'm very black and white. I've always done what I wanted to do: work with the best products, things that interest me, being honest, being generous ... And not giving a shit.''

Mark Best, of Marque, congratulated Shewry, hitting Twitter soon after the awards were announced on Tuesday: "Congrats bro! What a result, couldn't have happened to a nicer guy."

The US and France tied as the most successful countries, each with six restaurants in the top 50. Europe remains by far the most awarded continent, with 29 restaurants in the top 50. Asia has seven, the US six, South America six and Australia two.

The domination of Spain's El Bulli (2005-2008) and Noma (2009-2012) illustrate Europe's supremacy. The reigns of chefs Ferran Adria and Rene Redzepi have been emblematic of global dining trends over the past decade, from the witty kitchen-meets-science lab approach of Adria to Redzepi's focus on paying homage to the environment, often sourcing unfamiliar - even unknown - wild ingredients within Scandinavia to create a strong and unique local voice.

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Shewry is more in the Redzepi mould. His foraging style has garnered him an increasingly global profile over the past year and a place among the world's ''it'' chefs.

Other awards at the World's 50 Best Restaurants 2013

Lifetime Achievement Award - Alain Ducasse

Best Female Chef - Nadia Santini

Chef's Choice - Alinea, Chicago, US

One to Watch - The Test Kitchen, Cape Town, South Africa

Sustainable Restaurant award - Narisawa, Tokyo, Japan

Highest New Entry - Attica, Melbourne (also best restaurant in Australasia)

Highest Climber - Astrid y Gastón, Limu, Peru

The S. Pellegrino & Acqua Panna World's 50 Best Restaurants awards was organised and published by Restaurant Magazine and began in 2002. Each year over 900 restaurant industry experts, including food critics, chefs and restaurateurs determine the list of 100 top restaurants. The experts, who represent 26 global regions, each have seven votes and can only vote for restaurants they have visited in the past 18 months and which they have no commercial interest in.

The annual awards recognise 100 restaurants as the world's best, despite the name indicating that only 50 restaurants are recognised.

Joanna Savill attended the World's 50 Best announcement as a guest of S. Pellegrino.

THE 50 BEST

1 El Celler de Can Roca Girona, Spain 
2 Noma Copenhagen, Denmark 
3 Osteria Francescana Modena, Italy 
4 Mugaritz San Sebastián, Spain 
5 Eleven Madison Park New York, USA 
6 D.O.M. São Paulo, Brazil 
7 Dinner by Heston Blumenthal London, UK 
8 Arzak San Sebastián, Spain 
9 Steirereck Vienna, Austria 
10 Vendôme Bergisch Gladbach, Germany 
11 Per Se New York, USA 
12 Frantzén/Lindeberg Stockholm, Sweden 
13 The Ledbury London, UK 
14 Astrid y Gastón Lima, Peru 
15 Alinea Chicago, USA 
16 L'Arpège Paris, France 
17 Pujol Mexico City, Mexico 
18 Le Chateaubriand Paris, France 
19 Le Bernardin New York, USA 
20 Narisawa Tokyo, Japan 
21 Attica Melbourne, Australia 
22 Nihonryori RyuGin Tokyo, Japan 
23 L'Astrance Paris, France 
24 L'Atelier Saint-Germain de Joël Robuchon Paris, France 
25 Hof Van Cleve Kruishoutem, Belgium 
26 Quique Dacosta Dénia, Spain 
27 Le Calandre Rubano, Italy 
28 Mirazur Menton, France 
29 Daniel New York, USA 
30 Aqua Wolfsburg, Germany 
31 Biko Mexico City, Mexico 
32 Nahm Bangkok, Thailand 
33 The Fat Duck Bray, UK 
34 Fäviken Järpen, Sweden 
35 Oud Sluis Sluis, Netherlands 
36 Amber Hong Kong, China 
37 Vila Joya Albufeira, Portugal 
38 Restaurant Andre Singapore 
39 8 1/2 Otto E Mezzo Bombana Hong Kong, China 
40 Combal.Zero Rivoli, Italy 
41 Piazza Duomo Alba, Italy 
42 Schloss Schauenstein Fürstenau, Switzerland 
43 Mr & Mrs Bund Shanghai, China 
44 Asador Etxebarri Atxondo, Spain 
45 Geranium Copenhagen, Denmark 
46 Mani São Paulo, Brazil 
47 The French Laundry Yountville, USA 
48 Quay Sydney, Australia 
49 Septime Paris, France 

THE 50 NEXT BEST

50 Central Lima, Peru
51 Pierre Gagnaire Paris, France
52 Manresa Los Gatos, USA 
53 The Tasting Room at Le Quartier Français Franschhoek, S.Africa 
54 La Grenouillère La Madelaine sous Montreuil, France 

55 Mathias Dahlgren Stockholm, Sweden 
56 Restaurant Relae Copenhagen, Denmark 
57 De Librije Zwolle, Netherlands 
58 Coi San Francisco, USA 
59 Viajante London, England 
60 Ultraviolet by Paul Pairet Shanghai, China 
61 The Test Kitchen Cape Town, South Africa 
62 La Vie Osnabrück, Germany 
63 Blue Hill At Stone Barns Westchester, USA 
64 Martin Berasategui Lasarte-Oria, Spain 
65 Iggy's Singapore 
66 Gaggan Bangkok, Thailand 
67 Chez Dominique Helsinki, Finland 
68 Waku Ghin Singapore 
69 Bras Laguiole, France 
70 Hedone London, UK 
71 St John London, UK 
72 In De Wulf Dranouter, Belgium 
73 Caprice Hong Kong, China 
74 Dal Pescatore Canneto sull'Oglio, Italy 
75 Lung King Heen Hong Kong, China
76 Malabar Lima, Peru 
77 Tickets Barcelona, Spain 
78 Hertog Jan Bruges, Belgium 
79 Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée Paris, France 
80 Roberta Sudbrack Rio de Janeiro, Brazil 
81 Les Amis Singapore 
82 Ristorante Cracco Milan, Italy 
83 Die Schwarzwaldstube Baiersbronn, Germany 
84 Pollen Street Social London, UK
85 Tantris Munich, Germany 
86 Momofuku Ssäm Bar New York, USA 
87 Zuma Dubai, UAE 
88 Hotel de Ville Crissier, Switzerland 
89 Momofuku Seiobo Sydney, Australia 
90 Bo Innovation Hong Kong, China 
91 Masa New York, USA 
92 La Petite Maison Dubai, UAE 
93 Momofuku Ko New York, USA 
94 La Maison Troisgros Roanne, France 
95 Quintessence Tokyo, Japan
96 Le Louis Xv Monte Carlo, France 
97 Spondi Athens, Greece 
98 Jean Georges New York, USA
99 Le Meurice Paris, France 
100 Varvary Moscow, Russia 

 

 

- FFX Aus

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