Taste the good life

BY JAN BILTON

Marlborough is a foodie's heaven and many of its delights are in season right now.

Recently, a foodie friend visiting from San Francisco remarked, "You really are spoilt for choice on this country."

Who could disagree? Some delights such as oysters, figs and passionfruit are seasonal and command a good price. There are also cheaper pleasures. Avocados, for example, always excellent on hot rye toast, also complement salmon roe, saffron mayonnaise and stone fruit.

At the recent Marlborough Wine and Food Festival, oysters reigned supreme.

Tio Point oysters, grown on ropes in the cold waters of the Tory Channel, were served up three ways and matched with Cloudy Bay's Pelorus Non Vintage sparkling wine. The combo won the festival's supreme wine and food match.

However, other local foods were close behind: crayfish, wild and farmed venison, whitebait, mussels, scallops, clams, blue cod, strawberries, cheese and chocolate. Heaven!

Passionfruit is popular with most Kiwis and now is the time to enjoy them at their best. Grown commercially in subtropical areas of the North Island and in particular the Bay of Plenty, passionfruit are at their sweetest when the skins are slightly wrinkled. They can be stored in the refrigerator for up to four weeks. I'm passionate about passionfruit and always ensure I have cubes of frozen pulp in the deep freeze for use in desserts and bakes during the winter months.

Haas avocados with their dark green/black crinkly skin are in season now, together with the dull green Reed variety. To test for ripeness, cradle the avocado in the palm of your hand and squeeze gently. Ripe avocados yield slightly to gentle pressure.

For those watching their waistline, avocado can replace butter on bread – it has the same spreadable qualities but only half the number of kilojoules.

Half an avocado has about 750 kilojoules, or 180 calories, about the same as 25 grams of butter or margarine.

OYSTERS THREE WAYS

A simple starter based on the Marlborough Wine and Food Festival's supreme wine and food match from Vicki Young, chef/owner of Bon Vivant Catering. Vicki prepares her aioli the traditional way but uses roasted garlic.

Rice wine vinaigrette

1 tsp grated root ginger

1/4 cup rice wine vinegar

1/2 tsp light soy sauce

Pinch sugar

3 Tbsp olive oil

2 Tbsp grapeseed oil

Tempura batter

1/2 small egg

2 Tbsp Cloudy Bay chardonnay

1/4 cup each: ice cold water, tempura batter flour

2 Tbsp plain flour

Canola oil for frying

Oysters

18 oysters in the shell

3 Tbsp lemon juice

Flaky sea salt and finely ground black pepper to taste

4 Tbsp each: salmon roe, aioli

Whisk the ingredients for the rice wine vinaigrette and place to one side.

Whisk the egg, chardonnay and water until well mixed. Gradually whisk in the sifted flours until a thin batter forms.

Heat enough oil for deep-frying in a small, deep saucepan.

Place 12 oysters in their shells on six serving plates. Sprinkle 6 with a little lemon juice and some flaky sea salt and finely ground black pepper.

Top the other six with a little rice wine vinaigrette and some salmon roe.

Dip the remaining six oysters in the batter. Allow the excess batter to drip off before deep-frying the oysters briefly, until crisp. Return to their shells and add to the serving plates. Top with a dollop of aioli.

Delicious served with tiny sandwiches of brown bread, thinly sliced lemon and fresh basil leaves plus a glass of Pelorus bubbles. Serves 6 as a starter.

AVOCADO & CHICKEN SALAD WITH PASSIONFRUIT DRESSING

Dressing

3 Tbsp passionfruit pulp

1 small shallot, diced

4 tsp good red wine vinegar

1 tsp Dijon-style mustard

3 Tbsp olive oil

Salt and pepper to taste

Salad

6 cups mesclun salad leaves

1/4 papaya or 2 ripe peaches, peeled, seeded and sliced

2 small avocados, stoned and sliced

2 cups sliced cooked or smoked chickenWhisk the ingredients for the dressing.

Toss the mesclun with half the dressing and pile on four serving plates.

Tuck the fruit, avocado and chicken into the salad. Drizzle with extra dressing. Serves 4.

FIGS WITH PASSIONFRUITMASCARPONE & RED WINE SYRUP

Passionfruit mascarpone is also excellent with other fruits and a superb filling for sponge rolls.

Red wine syrup

1/2 cup red wine

1/4 cup each: water, sugar

1 tsp whole cloves

1/2 cinnamon stick

Passionfruit mascarpone

200g mascarpone

1/2 cup cream

2-3 Tbsp caster sugar

1/2 cup fresh passionfruit pulp

12 figs

To make the syrup, bring all the ingredients to the boil, stirring, until the sugar is dissolved. Simmer until reduced by about a half. Cool.

Ensure the mascarpone is at room temperature. Beat the cream, mascarpone and caster sugar until well combined. Fold in the passionfruit pulp. Chill. Wash the figs and pat dry. Trim the stalks. Slice the figs in half from the base to the stalk. Arrange the figs on serving plates and drizzle with the wine syrup.

Place scoops of passionfruit mascarpone beside the figs. Serves 6.

GRILLED AVOCADOS WITH PRAWNS & GRAPEFRUIT VINAIGRETTE

Grapefruit dressing

1/2 cup Ocean Spray Red Grapefruit drink

2 Tbsp each: white balsamic vinegar, lemon juice

1 tsp sugar

1/2 cup canola oil

Pinch chilli flakes

Salt and pepper to taste

Salad

2 avocados

Freshly ground salt and pepper to taste

3-4 Tbsp lime-infused rice bran oil or similar

32 large raw prawns

4 cups mesclun salad leaves

1 large orange, peeled and segmented (no membranes)

Whisk the ingredients for the dressing and place to one side.

Halve and stone the avocados. Leave the skin on. Season and brush with the lime-infused oil.

Heat a ridged frying pan or barbecue. Place the avocados cut-side down on the pan and cook until dark ridges appear, about 1 minute.

Turn over and cook for 30 seconds. Place cut-side up on four serving plates.

Sprinkle with a little dressing.

Brush the prawns with the remaining oil.

Cook on the ridged pan or barbecue for 1-2 minutes each side.

Pile in the centre of the avocado halves and around the side.

Toss the mesclun with a little of the dressing and pile on the plates.

Garnish with the orange segments.

Top the prawns with the aioli.

Serves 4 as a light meal or starter.

Copyright Jan Bilton

- The Marlborough Express