Recipe: Rack up a goat roast

LEAN AND DELICIOUS:  Rack of goat on buttered mash with red wine sauce.
LEAN AND DELICIOUS: Rack of goat on buttered mash with red wine sauce.

There's a new meat in town and it's nothing like you'd expect, says boer goat breeder Dot Adams.

Despite being the most widely consumed meat in the world, goat meat has taken a while to find its way on to New Zealand tables. "There's a perception that goat meat has a wild, game taste and is tough," says Adams. "That might be true of wild goats that end up on the table after a hunt, but not of farmed ones."

Goat is definitely the new lamb. Ray McVinnie gave the meat a nod when he used it the final episode of New Zealand Masterchef for a curry dish, and it's slowly been springing up on menus around the country.

Canterbury chef Jonny Schwass agrees it is one of the more delicious meats to eat but the challenge is sourcing it. "I'm trying to find a supplier now because I'm keen to add it my menu. I've eaten a lot of goat overseas but it's something that's just very hard to find here."

Goat meat is reputed to be one of the healthiest red meats to eat. Naturally lean, it is low in cholesterol and fats (According to the South African Heart Foundation eating plan.) That does mean long slow cooking if you are roasting a leg or shoulder.

"The advantage is that it doesn't smell like mutton does while you are cooking it," says Adams.

Adams, and her husband Dave, farm boer goats, a South African variety bred for its meat rather than milk on their Cork-Lorne Boers stud farm at Yaldhurst.

The Adamses send only nine goats a week for processing. The meat then appears in the fridges at the Mad Butcher in Blenheim Rd so there is not a lot to go around. "We are looking for more suppliers to keep up with the demand," Adams says.

Rack with red wine and balsamic sauce

2 x 6-8 rack of goat, French trimmed

1 Tbsp olive oil

2 cloves crushed garlic

1 Tbsp dijon mustard

1 Tbsp finely chopped rosemary or thyme

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Score the fat (if any) and season well. Heat an ovenproof saute pan with oil until hot. Sear racks quickly on both sides until golden, then cool for 5 minutes. Combine remaining ingredients and spread on fat side. Place racks fat side up in pan and roast at 200C for 10-20 minutes. Transfer to a platter and rest, loosely covered, for 10 minutes.

Red wine sauce

This sauce can be made several days ahead or can be frozen.

2 tsp olive oil and a knob of butter

1 small onion, chopped

4 button mushrooms

2 cloves garlic, crushed

1 tsp rosemary, finely chopped

1 tsp sugar

2 Tbsp balsamic vinegar

1 cup red wine

2 cups good beef stock

To finish

1 Tbsp butter

1 Tbsp flour

Heat oil and butter in a medium pan. Add onion, mushrooms, garlic and rosemary with a good pinch of salt. Cover and cook until onion is tender. Add sugar, cook for 2 minutes to caramelise the onions. Add balsamic vinegar and stir to deglaze the pan. Add wine and stock, bring to boil and reduce the heat, cook for 30 minutes to reduce by half. Strain into a saucepan and discard the solids. Season.

To finish, put butter and flour in a small bowl and blend to smooth paste using the back of the spoon. Gradually whisk small dollops of the paste into the simmering sauce until smooth and glossy. Simmer for 5 minutes to cook the flour.

Arrange rack on a pile of buttery mash and pour over red wine sauce.

The Press