Can't bear barely any beer fare

Last updated 13:55 03/03/2009

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Despite the wonderful range of beers that are available in supermarkets and liquor stores around the province I continue to be totally unimpressed by the feeble selections offered by most local bars and eateries.

Too often the rules that apply to the food, wine and even coffee seem to be thrown out of the window when it comes to beer. Restaurateurs, publicans and licensees who would never dream of selling frozen pizzas, box wines or instant coffee are often quite happy to offer their beer equivalents.

Think back to the last time you went out to for a meal. Having read the menu and decided what you would like to eat, did you and your fellow diners enjoy spending a few minutes scanning the wine list in order to find something decent to complement the dishes you'd chosen? And did you end up plumping for something a little more expensive than the everyday wine you drink at home? I thought so! And anyway, isn't splashing out on something a bit special part of the enjoyment of an evening out?

But what if your beverage of choice isn't wine, but beer? Assuming the drinks list at your chosen eatery actually includes beers is there a broad range of styles, with some from overseas? And does the list include tasting notes and helpful suggestions as to which beer might be appropriate to match with each dish? No? Why ever not?

I'm amazed at the number of local bars and restaurants that don't offer any of this province's award-winning beers. Would they consider not having Marlborough wines? Of course not.

Quoting an edict from a restaurateur and former boss, the Kiwi food and drinks writer Keith Stewart argues the first lesson in managing a drinks list is profit. "The job of a professional is to take all of the money out of their guests' wallets in such a way that when the guests wake up in the morning and find themselves broke, the memory of their previous night's experience makes them happy to be so."

Stewart and his former boss are quite right; if professional waiting staff can encourage diners to trade up to a more expensive bottle of wine then why shouldn't they also be able to upsell a decent pale ale, wheat beer or porter? After all, even the best beers cost only a few dollars more than some mundane draught or Auckland-brewed clone of a big-name Euro-lager.

Offering a decent range of quality beers ought to be regarded as a key opportunity for any restaurateur or licensee. Sadly it's an opportunity that is still far too often wasted. Cheers!

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- The Marlborough Express

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