Take a gamble on a glass of Roulette
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With a reputation as one of New Zealand's most innovative craft brewers, Blenheim's Graeme Mahy has already seen keen interest in his fledgling brand, 666 Brewing, from around the country.
Although his first 666 Brewing beer, Gabriel, was brewed in only tiny, 150-litre batches that is just three kegs at a time it has already been spotted as far south as Dunedin's Tonic Bar, Christchurch's Pomeroy's and across Cook Strait in Wellington's Bar Edward.
At this stage, Mr Mahy's intention is to produce a series of short-run, limited-release brews to suit the season. It is a smart concept that allows him to launch a range of different styles in comparatively quick succession and gauge the public's reaction to the beers.
At Blenheim's most beer-savvy bar, The Creek, in Dodson St, Gabriel has just been replaced with 666 Brewing's latest offering, Roulette. Why 666? Well, Mr Mahy was born in June 1966. And Roulette? Apparently the numbers on a roulette wheel total 666. So now you know!
As for the beer itself, whereas Gabriel was a crisp, easy-drinking, bright, golden ale that was perfect for quaffing on warm summer days, Roulette, with 5.2 per cent alcohol, is an altogether richer, maltier brew more suited to sustained enjoyment on cooler autumn evenings. As such, I believe it is pretty much right on the mark.
The new beer is something of an Anglo-United States hybrid stylistically, a cross between an American amber ale and an English extra-special bitter.
The grist comprises pale chocolate, crystal and caramel malts, as well as torrefied wheat and a touch of roasted barley. Although the yeasts are a 50-50 blend of American and English ale strains, there is also a Kiwi influence: the two varieties of hops Mr Mahy selected are both New Zealand grown.
Having witnessed the brewing of the first batch of Roulette and inhaling the fragrant hop aroma as the steaming wort emerged from the brewkettle, I was more than a little surprised that it was the malts that dominated the aroma and palate in the finished beer.
Sampled extremely young, only a week out of the fermenter, the first batch poured a reddish-brown hue with an aroma that combined sweet chocolate (Milo?) with only a suggestion of grassiness from those Kiwi hops.
In the mouth, powdery chocolate was once again immediately obvious, but as the beer warmed in the glass, this was joined by caramel and a hint of charred roastiness that combined with the hops to produce a long, dry and moreish finish.
With a little more age, I expect the fruitiness of the hops Styrian Goldings (orangey) and Riwaka (passionfruit) will emerge more strongly.
Over the next few batches, Mr Mahy, always a fierce critic of his own beers, intends to soften the roast notes a shade and tweak the beer's caramel sweetness and mouth feeling.
Given the small amount of 666 Brewing beer that's currently being made, most Kiwis probably stand more chance of a win on the roulette wheel than finding its beery namesake! Cheers!
- The Marlborough Express
