Harrington's hit the nail on the head

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Carl Harrington of Harringtons Brewery's

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Beer

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Looking back over my columns I notice that I've hardly ever given a mention to Harrington's of Christchurch. It's high time I set that right.

New Zealand's largest family-owned brewing company fired its first brewkettle back in 1991. Having owned and run pubs for almost two decades, John and Val Harrington tried to retire from the industry but soon found themselves drawn back into it. The couple's first brewery was built in Kilmore St and a 1000-litre brewhouse was installed with the intention of brewing three times a week.

Sales took off and within a fortnight of opening John realised he had grossly underestimated the demand for his beers. The brewery was expanded and in 1993 a second brewery was opened in Ferry Rd, this time with a 6000-litre batch size. A third brewery, the old Castle Rock brewery, at the other end of Ferry Rd, was added in 1999 expanding brewing capacity by a further 30 per cent.

The original Christchurch brewery was closed some years ago but the two Ferry Rd breweries remain. A modern packaging line has been installed at the Ferrymead plant and the company now undertakes contract bottling on behalf of a number of the city's smaller craft breweries. Harrington's also operates two pubs and eight bottle shops in Christchurch.

Back in the 90s the first Harrington's beers were simple lagers in the mainstream Kiwi styles of the time and designed to be sold cheaply, primarily in workingmen's clubs and through the company's liquor stores. However, from day one the beers differed from those of the country's two largest brewers, Lion and DB, in that they were brewed using all malt, without added sugars.

Over the years the Harrington's beer range has gradually been increased and of late a range of craft beers has been added. Today, as well as making spirits, RTDs and alcoholic ginger beer, the company produces an astonishing range of beer styles, including limited release and special editions.

Named after the man who started the company, Big John Special Reserve was first brewed in March 2001. The brewery used to age its famous strong, dark lager in bourbon casks but in 2007 the casks became unavailable and since then a measure of bourbon has been added at the end of the kettle boil. A frequent award winner in brewing competitions, the beer was judged supreme champion at the 2002 New Zealand International Beer Awards.

Pouring a deep copper hue beneath a wispy, tan-coloured head, there's caramel, coffee and chocolate, along with suggestions of molasses, dark fruit and sweet bourbon. The beer's mouthfeel is surprisingly slender, but there's plenty of malt flavour and a hint of alcoholic warmth leading into a balancing dry finish.

A flavoursome brew that's perfect for a chilly winter's night, Big John Special Reserve like all Harrington's beers represents excellent value for money. Cheers!