One for the road, Lance

BY GEOFF GRIGGS

Last weekend Lance Dodd (Editor, The Marlborough Express) upped sticks and set off for a new life in Melbourne. I first met the lanky, beer-loving South African in 2003, shortly after he joined The Marlborough Express, and have since enjoyed his company over more than a few pints. I'll miss his support for my work and those occasional meetings at the pub, but I'm sure he'll be a great advocate for fine beer on the other side of the Tasman.

In recent weeks I seem to have been saying an awful lot of goodbyes, mostly to friends and colleagues overseas. I guess that's one of the downsides of international travel.

Since coming to New Zealand in 1995 and starting to write about beer, I've made a great many friends in the industry. Ironically it was my work here which brought me to the attention of the late Michael Jackson, the noted English beer and whisky writer and expert. Having been his guide during a visit to New Zealand, Michael adopted me as his unofficial Kiwi correspondent and, until his untimely passing in 2007, introduced me to many people whom I now regard as personal friends. Last month I caught up with two of them, Mike Powell-Evans and Mark Dorber, in Suffolk.

I first met Mike Powell-Evans on a previous visit to Britain in April 2008. Mike was in the process of retiring after many years as head brewer at Adnams, producers of one of Britain's most admired bitters.

A few weeks ago I caught up with him again at the World Beer Cup in Chicago where he was also on the judging panel.

Mark Dorber is another regular member of the World Beer Cup judging panel – although sadly not this year. One of Britain's most respected experts in cellarmanship, he was, for many years, the licensee at the White Horse in London's Parson's Green, a pub noted for the range and quality of its beers. Mark's skills were such that he was even allowed to add a final addition of dry hops to casks of Bass Ale as the beer matured in the pub's cellar. I am not aware of any other licensee who is permitted that privilege!

Mark and his wife Sophie left London a few years ago and now live in rural Suffolk where they run an excellent Adnams pub, The Anchor at Walberswick, just a few miles down the coast from the brewery. A highly educated man with a cellar that's always brimming with rare and interesting beers (and wines), Mark is an engaging and welcoming host and I always endeavour to visit him when I'm in England.

Last month, on my way up to see relations in Lowestoft, I called in to The Anchor on the off-chance of catching up with Mark. Although he was away from the pub at the time, he immediately returned and suggested we hold an impromptu beer tasting and dinner the following night. Mark then invited Mike Powell-Evans and Tim Dunsford from the Green Jack Brewery in Lowestoft.

Each of us brought along a few beers and, over the course of several hours, enjoyed a delightful meal along with a selection of interesting brews.

It was a splendid evening, the highlight of which was Adnams Innovation, a wonderfully aromatic new Anglo-United States-style pale ale from the local brewer. I won't go into more details here because you'd only get jealous, especially as the beer isn't likely to make it to New Zealand any time soon!

Instead, and in honour of Lance Dodd's departure from Marlborough, I'd like to end this week's column with a recommendation for one of his favourite Kiwi beers. Over a farewell beer last Friday evening, Lance told me that each time he went to the supermarket he used to buy a four pack of Epic Pale Ale. It's an excellent choice.

Judged supreme champion beer at the 2006 New Zealand International Beer Awards, Epic Pale Ale was probably, at the time, this country's hoppiest beer. Modelled on the American west coast-style of pale ale, this golden brew bursts with the pine and citrus fragrance and flavours of America's famous Cascade hops, balanced with just enough biscuity malt sweetness.

Even today, when there are even bigger and bolder pale ales available – not the least Epic's sister brews Mayhem and Armageddon – Epic Pale Ale is still one of the few Kiwi beers that would raise a smile on the lips of beer-loving Californians.

Cheers Lance! All the best mate.

- The Marlborough Express