Salad days

BY JAN BILTON

According to historians, salads were enjoyed by the ancient Romans and Greeks.

The word salad originates from the Latin "sal", meaning salt, which was used in the dressings accompanying salads. Raw vegetables were eaten with a dressing of oil, vinegar, salt and herbs. Not much has changed.

However, at the end of the 19th century, the domestic goddesses of American cookery decided that salads should be more formally presented. Disorganised piles of salad greens on plates were a no-no. The simple salad evolved into a complicated, time-consuming concoction. Salad greens had to be tamed by thinly shredding. Other vegetables were similarly treated. Slices of egg, beetroot and cucumber adorned the shredded greens in symmetrical lines served with carrot and celery sticks on the side. Jellied and moulded salads became the "piece de resistance" of the salad table.

Luckily, free-form salads regained favour in the 1970s and now encompass tantalising creations of new wave lettuces, crisp noodles, pastas, unusual fruits, seafood, meats, herbs, grains and trendy veges.

They can be side dishes, light meals or hearty dinners.

Dressings range from a simple combo of a mild vinegar and crushed garlic whisked with extra virgin olive oil through to the more complicated mayos that need a whisk or blender to assist in emulsifying the oil and vinegar.

These two are the basis for more elaborate dressings – for example, wasabi mayonnaise and fresh herb French dressing.

I use a hand-held blender to make mayonnaise because it is easier to clean. Place an egg in the blender, add two tablespoons of cider or wine vinegar, half a teaspoon each of sugar and dry mustard, and salt and pepper to taste. Process until smooth. Drizzle in a cup of olive oil, blending until creamy and thick.

PROSCIUTTO & MELON SALAD WITH ORANGE DRESSING

Dressing: 1/3cup orange juice

1 clove garlic, crushed

1/2 tsp each: sugar, Dijon-style mustard

1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil

Salad: 1 large ripe rock melon

8 cups mesclun salad, rinsed and crisped in the refrigerator

18 slices prosciutto

To make the dressing, whisk the orange juice, garlic, sugar and mustard in a small bowl. Gradually whisk in the olive oil. Set aside.

To make the salad, just before serving, peel, seed and slice the rock melon.

Place the mesclun salad leaves on six salad plates. Top with the melon slices and twists of prosciutto.

Drizzle with the dressing. Great served with crusty bread. Serves 6 as a light meal or starter.

PASTA SALAD WITH MOZZARELLA & BASIL

The fresh mozzarella could be exchanged for fresh ricotta (eg Zany Zeus).

Dressing: 6 Tbsp olive oil

1/2 cup drained sundried tomatoes, chopped

1/4 cup red wine vinegar

1 Tbsp capers, rinsed and drained

1 clove garlic, crushed

Salad: 300g bow tie pasta or similar

400g (about 6) small, tasty tomatoes, coarsely chopped

250g fresh mozzarella, drained and cut into 2cm cubes

1 cup packed basil leaves, thinly sliced

1/2 cup finely grated parmesan cheese

1 3/4 cup kalamata olives, rinsed, pitted and finely diced

Place the dressing ingredients in a blender and process until smooth.

Boil the pasta in a large saucepan of salted water until just tender.

Meanwhile, prepare the other ingredients.

Drain the pasta and combine with the dressing. Cool, stirring occasionally.

Gently add the remaining ingredients. Can be garnished with extra basil leaves. Serves 4.

INDONESIAN GREEN BEAN SALAD

Salad: 400g green beans

1 Tbsp peanut oil

1/2 tsp each: crushed garlic, chilli paste, salt

1 small onion, finely sliced

Peanut dressing: 1 Tbsp soy sauce

1/4 cup each: sweet chilli sauce, cider or wine vinegar

3 Tbsp crunchy peanut butter

1/2 cup salad oil

String the beans if necessary and thinly slice. Heat the oil in a wok or frypan and toss the beans on high heat for 2 minutes. Add a tablespoon or two of water if more steam is required to cook the beans. Add the garlic, chilli paste and salt and stir-fry for 1-2 minutes. The beans should be crisp-tender. Cool and toss with the onion.

To prepare the dressing, combine the ingredients and serve in a bowl.

Serves 6 as an accompaniment.

ARTICHOKE & ASPARAGUS SALAD

Salad: 500g asparagus

4-6 crisp lettuce leaves

2 x 400g cans artichoke hearts

2 stalks celery, sliced

250g mushrooms, sliced

Mustard dressing; 1 tsp smooth French mustard

1 clove garlic, crushed

1 Tbsp white vinegar

1 tsp liquid honey

1/4 tsp dried tarragon

salt and pepper

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

Snap any tough ends from asparagus and discard. Blanch quickly in boiling water or in the microwave, until crisp tender. Refresh in icy water. Wash and crisp the lettuce leaves.

Drain the artichokes and halve if preferred. Place in a bowl with the celery and mushrooms. Whisk the ingredients for the dressing. Pour over the salad and gently toss.

Arrange the lettuce leaves and the asparagus on a platter and pile the artichoke mixture in the centre. Serves 6-8.

Copyright Jan Bilton

- The Marlborough Express