Spud appeal

BY CHRIS FORTUNE

The best thing about spuds at this time of the year is that there is still dirt on them. This is even better than having a small sticker on them saying "new potato", for it is the seal of approval that they are in the best condition and have been freshly dug.

While there is plenty of time throughout the year to eat nameless and shapeless varieties of potato, this is a great time to purchase and sample some of the lesser-known but tastier varieties. Jersey benne, russet, fingerling, cliff's kidneys and chippewa, karaka and red rascal – all add appeal to the table with their own flavours and unique shapes.

The best-dressed spuds of the night are the simplest, served with a splash of new season's olive oil, a grind of fresh pepper and a sprinkle of Marlborough sea salt. Cook more than you want and the remainder can be used the next day, dressed with a homemade mayonnaise or garlic aioli and served beside cold cuts for lunch.

My favourite spud story is about an old man living alone in South Armagh, Northern Ireland whose only son was in Long Kesh Prison, so he didn't have anyone to dig his garden for his potatoes. He wrote to his son about his predicament.

The son sent the reply: "For heaven's sake don't dig the garden up, that's where I buried the guns!" At 3am the next morning, a dozen British soldiers turned up and dug through the garden for three hours, but didn't find any guns.

Confused, the man wrote to his son telling him what had happened, and asking what he should do now.

The son sent the reply: "Now plant the potatoes!"

MARLBOROUGH GARLIC AND HERB AIOLI

3 cloves Marlborough garlic, peeled

1 tsp Marlborough salt

2 large egg yolks, free range

1 Tbsp white wine vinegar

1 Tbsp boiling water

1 Tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice

4 Tbsp fresh herbs, chopped roughly

1 cup grape seed oil

1/3 cup extra virgin Marlborough olive oil (if you make it with 100 per cent NZ olive oil, it is too strong in olive and acidic flavours)

Sprinkle the garlic with a pinch of the salt and smash it into a paste with the side of a cook's knife. Whisk all the ingredients except the oils and boiling water together, then slowly drizzle in the oils until thick and creamy. Finish with the boiling water and season to taste.

- The Marlborough Express