In a pickle

BY JAN BILTON

When is traditional preserve not a preserve? When it is a marmalata.

It appears just about any fruit or vege can be used in a marmalata. And they are being served by chefs in trendy restaurants and sold in jars by New Zealand manufacturers internationally. But where did the word originate?

Recently, I was provided with an abundance of stonefruit to preserve. My research revealed that marmalatas strongly resembled jams and chutneys. And the origin of the word appears to be Italian for marmalade or jam – marmalata.

Just as onions braised in brown sugar and balsamic vinegar can be called either onion jam or onion marmalade – and now onion marmalata – numerous jams and chutneys now have the exotic appeal of this intriguing name. Everything old is new again.

I've decided to label my chutneys and jams the old-fashioned way, but if you prefer, add a bit of marmalata buzz to yours.

Hints

Jams and jellies need pectin to set. To see if a fruit has sufficient pectin, cook a small portion in a little water. When soft, take one teaspoon of the juice and combine with one tablespoon of methylated spirits. Gently swirl and leave for a minute. If there is plenty of pectin, a transparent clot is formed.

If the pectin content is average, the clot will be less firm and may break in several places. A very broken clot indicates very little pectin in the fruit. Adding a fruit rich in pectin, such as tart apples, or commercial pectin could solve the problem.

Choose firm but ripe fruit for preserves.

The most reliable way to test for the setting point is by using a good jam thermometer. Most preserves set at 104 degrees Celsius.

The simplest method is the plate test: at the end of cooking, put a spoonful of the jam on a plate and leave to cool slightly.

If a skin is formed that wrinkles when the plate is tilted, the preserve will set on cooling. If not, cook for a few minutes extra and test again.

SPICED PEACH CHUTNEY

This versatile spicy chutney is great with curries and goat's cheese on croutons.

2kg peaches, stoned, peeled and sliced

4 Tbsp pickling spices

1 medium onion, diced

2 cloves garlic, crushed

1 cup raisins

150g preserved ginger

1-3 tsp ground chilli

1 Tbsp mustard seed

1 tsp curry powder

1kg brown sugar

1 litre (4 cups) cider vinegar

Place the peaches in a large, heavy-based saucepan. Wrap the pickling spices in muslin and tie with string. Add to the saucepan with all the other ingredients.

Bring to the boil, stirring until the sugar is dissolved. Simmer for about 2 hours or until thick. Stir occasionally to prevent the chutney from sticking to the base of the saucepan.

Remove the bag of pickling spices. Pour the chutney into hot, sterilised jars to the top.

Wipe the rims and seal tightly.

Makes about 5 cups.

PLUM & PINOT JAM

Red wine provides great colour, especially if yellow-fleshed plums are used. Another red wine could be substituted, or use orange juice.

1kg plums, washed, halved and stoned

1 cup pinot noir

3 1/2 cups sugar

Place the plums and wine in a large heavy-based saucepan. Bring to the boil and simmer until the plums are soft.

Stir in the sugar until it is dissolved. Boil for about 20 minutes or until it reaches 104C on a jam or candy thermometer or gives a setting test. The cooking time will depend on the variety of plum used. Use a spoon to skim the foam from the surface as it cooks.

Pour into hot sterilised jars to the top and seal. Makes about 4 cups.

APRICOT KASAUNDI

An Indian-style chutney.

150g root ginger, peeled and diced

15 (50g) cloves garlic, chopped

1 1/4 cups white vinegar

1/2 cup canola oil

1 Tbsp ground turmeric

2 Tbsp each: ground cumin, chilli powder

1kg fresh apricots, stoned and chopped

1 cup sugar

2 Tbsp mustard seeds

1 Tbsp salt

Place the ginger, garlic and a 1/4 cup of the vinegar into a food processor or blender and mix until smooth.

Heat the oil in a large saucepan. Add the turmeric, cumin and chilli powder and fry until fragrant. Add the ginger and garlic paste, the apricots, the remaining vinegar, the sugar, mustard seeds and salt. Cook over low heat, stirring occasionally until the oil floats on top.

Pour into sterilised jars to the top. Wipe the rims and seal. A thin layer of oil can be poured on top to help keep the contents airtight prior to sealing. Makes about 6 cups.

ROSY NECTARINE JAM

Raspberries add a rosy glow to this tasty jam. There is no need to peel the nectarines.

1kg nectarines, stoned and diced

1 cup raspberries

3 1/2 cups sugar

1/4 cup lemon juice

Place all the ingredients in a large, heavy-based saucepan. Stir well, then stand for 30 minutes for the sugar to dissolve.

Simmer on medium heat for 30 minutes or until it reaches 104C on a jam or candy thermometer or gives a setting test. Skim the froth from the surface as it cooks. Pour into hot sterilised jars to the top, wipe the rims and seal. Makes about 4 cups.

Copyright Jan Bilton

- The Marlborough Express