New tastes from London

BY JAN BILTON

Put London on your travel menu. You don't have to be a dedicated foodie to relish the buzz and cultural delights of the markets and restaurants.

Smithfield (or the London Central Markets) in Clerkenwell is well worth a visit. The largest European Union-approved wholesale meat market in Britain, it is also the oldest, operating for more than 140 years.

Spread across four hectares, on which stand some architecturally stunning buildings, the market has evolved, and its offerings include an impressive array of deli foods. Trading begins at 3am, and you should visit no later than 7am to enjoy the real action.

Close by in St John's Lane, 39-year-old expatriate Kiwi Anna Hansen provides stylish breakfasts, lunches and dinners at The Modern Pantry seven days a week. A small, modern traiteur on the ground floor of a four-storey Georgian-style townhouse, it serves inspired delicatessen dishes, sandwiches, soups, pastries, cakes and beverages to take away.

The first floor houses two elegant, light-filled dining rooms overlooking St John's Square. A set, NZ$35 two-course lunch – for example, feta, gooseberry and mint fritters, feijoa and green pepper relish, and braised artichokes with Devon Blue – is, by London standards, excellent value.

Hansen was one of Peter Gordon's partners in The Providores in 2001. Her talent has earned her a place in the world's top 100 chefs in the foodie book Coco (Phaidon, 2009).

Two interesting trends are changing the London food scene. The first is the gastropub – pubs serving quality food. The second is cafes and restaurants in church crypts. We enjoyed The Restaurant at St Paul's Cathedral with its heavenly food and vaulted ceilings. One can choose from the very best of modern British (portobello mushroom with quail's egg and truffle dressing, plus matching wine), or enjoy a quick snack or a traditional pastry from The Cafe.

CRISPY HOCK WITH MANGO, GREEN CHILLI & SPICED PEANUT SALAD

My interpretation of an Anna Hansen dish I enjoyed at The Modern Pantry. The various steps can be carried out in advance. Assemble just before serving.

To make spiced peanuts: bake unsalted roasted peanuts, mixed with a little curry powder, chilli powder and sugar, until golden.

Hocks:

2 medium ham or bacon hocks

2-3 Tblsp canola oil

1 Tblsp brown sugar

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Dressing:

1 Tblsp cumin seeds, lightly crushed and toasted

1/3 cup plum wine or white balsamic vinegar

1 small green chili, seeded and thinly sliced

3/4 cup spiced peanuts

Salad:

1 large mango, peeled and diced

2 cups assorted baby salad leaves

1 spring onion, thinly sliced

1/4 cup coriander sprigs

Place the hocks in a large saucepan and cover with cold water. Slowly bring to the boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 1 1/2-2 hours, until the meat is almost falling off the bones. Cool, drain, and discard the skin and bones (this can be done up to two days in advance). Slice the meat.

Heat a tablespoon of the oil in a non-stick frying pan. Stir-fry the sliced meat until crisp. Stir in the sugar and continue frying until golden. Season.

To make the dressing, whisk the cumin seeds, plum wine or balsamic vinegar and green chilli until mixed. Slowly whisk in the remaining oil. Add the peanuts just before serving.

Place the meat on six serving plates. Top with the mango. Toss the greens, spring onion and coriander with the dressing. Place on top of the meat and mango. Serves 6 as a starter.

WILD RICE SALAD, CHARRED SWEETCORN & WALNUTS

Based on a recipe from Anna Hansen of The Modern Pantry.

2 cobs sweetcorn

1 Tblsp canola oil

3/4 cup (black) wild rice

Water to cover

1 small cinnamon stick

1 red chilli, split lengthways (optional)

1 small red onion, sliced

1 Tblsp canola oil

3 Tblsp good red wine vinegar

1/4 tsp sweet smoked paprika

100g walnuts

1 tsp cumin seeds, lightly crushed

1 Tblsp each: icing sugar, water

1 bunch coriander, chopped

1 avocado, peeled, stoned and diced

1 small bunch watercress, coarsely chopped

100g cumin-flavoured feta

Cut the kernels from the cob. Heat the oil in a heavy frying pan. Stir-fry the kernels until lightly charred. Set aside.

Simmer the wild rice, cinnamon stick and chilli in plenty of water until tender but still al dente. Strain. Cool.

Saute the red onion in the oil until caramelised. Add the vinegar and smoked paprika. When the vinegar has evaporated, remove from the heat. Cool.

Toss the walnuts with the combined cumin seeds, icing sugar and water. Bake at 150C for 20 minutes or until golden. Cool.

To assemble, combine the rice, sweetcorn, onion, chopped coriander, avocado and watercress in a bowl. Crumble the feta over the top and garnish with the walnuts. Serves 8 as an accompaniment.

LAVENDER SHORTBREAD

For best flavour, steep the icing sugar and a tablespoon of lavender flowers in a covered container for a week.

250g butter

1 cup each: sifted icing sugar, custard powder

1 tsp lavender flowers

1/2 tsp vanilla essence

2 cups standard flour

Soften the butter, then cream with the icing sugar until light and well mixed. Add the custard powder, lavender flowers and essence and mix well.

Stir in the flour. Knead the dough lightly to mix.

Shape and/or mould the shortbread as desired. Place on a cold baking tray.

Chill for at least 30 minutes to prevent spreading.

Preheat the oven to 180C. Bake for 15-20 minutes. Makes about 30 3cm round biscuits.

RICHMOND MAIDS OF HONOUR

Another traditional sweet treat on the menu at The Cafe at St Paul's Cathedral.

350g ready-rolled flaky pasty

1-2 Tblsp flour

Filling:

125g ricotta cheese

2 Tblsp each: caster sugar, chopped candied lemon peel

Finely grated rind of 1 lemon

25g ground almonds

1 medium egg, lightly beaten

1 egg yolk

2-3 Tblsp lemon curd

Icing sugar for dusting

Preheat the oven to 200C. Lightly grease or oil a 12-hole shallow tart tray.

Using a sharp biscuit cutter, cut 12 pastry circles about 8cm in diameter. Don't twist the cutter – press it down sharply, then tap out the pastry. Line the tart tins.

Combine the ricotta, sugar, candied lemon peel, lemon rind, ground almonds, egg and egg yolk in a bowl, mixing well with a fork.

Spoon 1/2 a teaspoon of the lemon curd into the pastry cases. Spoon two teaspoons of the ricotta mixture on top.

Bake for about 25 minutes, until the mixture has puffed up and is golden brown.

Remove the tarts from the tin and cool on a wire rack. They will sink a little.

Dust with icing sugar before serving. Makes 12.

Copyright Jan Bilton

- The Marlborough Express