All kinds of treats from tomatoes

BY JAN BILTON

"A world without tomatoes is like a string quartet without violins." - Laurie Colwin (American author)

Acid-free roma, heirloom cherokee purple, supertom alboron, black cherry, golden plum and tiny, sweet, red, cherry tomatoes from our vege garden are proving to be key ingredients in some rather tempting dishes. It's the first year we've had such an abundant, colourful mix and the flavours are outstanding.

It's hard to resist eating the cherry tomatoes straight from the vine, although they make tasty accompaniments to five o'clock drinks and excellent additions to lunch boxes.

The heirloom cherokee are fleshy with deep, rich flavour that cooking enhances even further – it is quite unlike anything we've ever tasted.

The fleshy, oval, acid-free roma (or plum) tomatoes make great pasta sauces or tomato ketchup. However, these Italian charmers are also excellent sliced in salads.

One of my favourite summertime lunches is pasta tossed with a mixture of tomatoes. Boil a cup of shell pasta or similar until just tender.

Meanwhile, dice six to eight tasty tomatoes, using different varieties and colours if possible. Sprinkle two cloves of new season's garlic with a little salt, then crush with the flat blade of a knife. Dice one small courgette and slice eight basil leaves. Drain the pasta and add 2 Tbsp of New Zealand extra virgin olive oil. Add the tomatoes, garlic and courgettes and heat through briefly. Season with black pepper and add the basil. Cover and stand for 1-2 minutes. Serve in two bowls and sprinkle with a little finely grated parmesan or tasty cheese.

Store tomatoes in a cool, dark place but preferably not the refrigerator, where they will lose their flavour. Tomatoes can be frozen in their skins and thawed later for sauces or soups.

PANZANELLA

I used Paul Holmes' Cold Pressed Lecino Olive Oil in the dressing.

400g stale ciabatta or similar

1kg ripe tomatoes

Flaky sea salt to taste

2 each: red, gold peppers (capsicum)

6 anchovies, drained, patted dry and halved

2 Tbsp capers, rinsed and drained

2 shallots, diced

1 cup basil leaves

Dressing: 3 Tbsp red wine vinegar

2 cloves garlic, crushed

1/2 cup good quality extra virgin olive oil

flaky sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Preheat the oven to 150 degrees Celsius. Remove and discard the crusts from the bread.

Break the bread into 3cm pieces and spread on a baking tray. Dry in the oven for about 15 minutes, until crisp. Cool.

Cut the tomatoes into 3cm chunks. Place in a colander or large sieve over a bowl. Sprinkle with the flaky salt. Gently squeeze any tomatoes with lots of pulp. Allow the juice to drip into the bowl. Add the anchovies and capers to the tomato juice.

Grill the peppers until charred on all sides. Place in a plastic bag to steam. Cool. Halve, peel and seed the peppers. Thinly slice.

Place the shallots, peppers, bread and basil leaves in a large serving bowl.

Shake the tomatoes in the sieve, then add to the serving bowl.

Remove the anchovies and capers for the garnish.

Add the vinegar and garlic to the tomato juice, then slowly whisk in enough olive oil to suit your taste. Toss with the salad ingredients. Top with the anchovies and capers. Serves 6-8.

ROASTED TOMATO RELISH

4 large onions, diced

2kg tomatoes, halved

2 large green-skinned apples, cored, peeled and diced

2 tsp salt

spray of oil

2 cups brown sugar

2 Tbsp paprika

1/2 tsp each: cayenne pepper, mustard powder

2 cups malt vinegar

Preheat the oven to 180C.

Place the onions, tomatoes and apples in a large roasting pan. Sprinkle with salt and spray with oil. Roast for 50-60 minutes or until the tomatoes have lost much of their liquid and the onions are tender. Drain. Remove the tomato skins, if preferred.

Combine with the brown sugar, paprika, cayenne, mustard powder and vinegar in a large saucepan. Bring to the boil and simmer for about 1 1/4 hours, until thick. Pour into hot, sterilised jars and seal. Makes about 6 cups.

GREEN TOMATO CHUTNEY

2 Tbsp whole pickling spices

1.5kg green tomatoes, chopped

2 medium onions, chopped

2 granny smith apples, peeled, cored, chopped

2 1/4 cups malt vinegar

1 cup white or brown sugar

1 tsp salt

Tie the pickling spices in a small piece of muslin (or a clean Chux cloth).

Combine with the green tomatoes, onions, apples, malt vinegar, sugar and salt in a large heavy-based saucepan and bring to the boil.

Simmer, uncovered, for 1 hour, stirring occasionally, or until the chutney is thickened and only a small amount of liquid is left.

Remove the spice bag and spoon the hot chutney into hot sterilised jars to the top and seal immediately.

Keep in a cool dark place for at least a week before opening to allow the flavours to develop. Store in a cool dark place for up to 3 months. Keep the chutney in the refrigerator once opened. Makes about 5 1/2 cups.

COMBINATION TOMATO SALAD

4 medium-sized, flavoursome, firm red tomatoes

1 cup each: red, yellow cherry tomatoes

8 kalamata olives, pitted and sliced

1 Tbsp capers, rinsed and drained

100g feta cheese

2 Tbsp each: basil pesto, extra virgin olive oil

1-2 Tbsp lemon juice

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

Thickly slice the red tomatoes and overlap on a flat serving plate. Halve the cherry tomatoes and place on top of the red tomato slices. Dot with the olives, capers and crumbled feta cheese. Combine remaining ingredients and drizzle over.

Copyright Jan Bilton

- The Marlborough Express