It's all white on the night

BY JAN BILTON

While we're thinking warm, fuzzy thoughts about the All Whites' success, I thought it apt to showcase our white vegetables.

Several are much maligned, as were the All Whites before the Fifa World Cup, but given the proper treatment, they can be winners.

Cauliflower is one vegetable that in the past was often boiled to death, resulting in a nutritive-free mush and leaving an offensive odour in the house.

My grandfather loved cauliflower cooked like this with his Sunday roast. When I served it as florets in a stir-fry, he pushed it to one side of his plate.

Cauliflower has been part of the Mediterranean diet for thousands of years. I love it lightly blanched, then cooled and served as part of salad nicoise or topped with tapenade or a spicy Indonesian peanut sauce. Florets also make wonderful dippers for guacamole or flavoured hummus.

Our common potato is at the opposite end of the popularity poll from the cauliflower, being the most popular vegetable in New Zealand.

Potatoes are most often sold in bags, with the cooking methods defined on the pack. This is very useful. You don't really want a good mashing spud if you're making chips. However, you can also buy general-purpose potatoes.

Potatoes make a fabulous base for soups – check out the leek, potato and savvy recipe. Leeks, like cauliflower, are another vegetable that attracts ambivalent remarks. They have been the national emblem of Wales since 640AD.

A member of the onion family, they have a mild, sweet flavour. The tough green leaves need to be discarded.

Wash leeks thoroughly in cold water before use to rid them of any soil. Add them to casseroles in place of onion, wrap them in bacon and bake, or simmer gently with crushed garlic, butter and sauvignon blanc.

A little finely sliced raw leek is an interesting addition to salads.

Turnips are a prized vegetable in many cuisines, and Kiwi chefs love to use baby turnips as a garnish. Larger turnips are great roasted and young turnips can be julienned for salads. I prefer to add some sweetness in the form of honey or maple syrup to cooked turnips.

LEEK, POTATO & SAVVY SOUP

I used a liquid vegetable stock, available in pouches from Essential Cuisine. If making your own stock, ensure pale vegetables are used.

400g (2 large) leeks, white parts only

1 Tbsp olive oil

1 Tbsp butter

1 medium onion, diced

1 1/2 cups sauvignon blanc

2 cups light vegetable stock

400g potatoes, peeled and cubed

3 cloves garlic, diced

Salt and white pepper to taste

1/2- 3/4 cup cream

Slice the leeks finely and wash well.

Heat the oil in a heavy saucepan. Add the butter. When sizzling, add the leeks and onion and cook over a low heat, until tender. Add the wine and simmer for five minutes. Add the stock, potatoes, garlic, salt and pepper. Cover and simmer for about 25 minutes, until the potatoes are soft.

Remove from the heat. Puree until smooth, preferably with a hand-held blender. Just before serving, heat through and stir in the cream.

May be garnished with a drizzle of avocado oil or chopped chives. Serves four to six.

THAI-STYLE FISH CAKES WITH TAMARIND

Choose a cheaper fish with white flesh.

1/4 cup peanuts

500g skinned and boned white fish fillets

3 cloves garlic, crushed

1 Tbsp finely grated root ginger

1 Tbsp tamarind paste

2-3 tsp diced, seeded green chilli or to taste

Salt to taste

1/4 cup finely chopped coriander

Rice-bran oil for frying.

Lightly toast the peanuts then finely grind.

Cut the fish into chunks and place in a food processor. Pulse, until smooth. Add the garlic, ginger, tamarind, chilli and salt. Pulse until blended. Remove the mixture to a bowl and stir in the ground peanuts. Form into about eight fish cakes. Chill until ready to cook.

Heat the oil in a non-stick frying pan. Saute the fish cakes for about two to three minutes each side, until lightly golden and cooked.

Great served with a dipping sauce of Thai-style sweet chilli sauce or equal amounts of lemon juice and fish sauce with a little diced chilli. Serves four.

ROASTED CAULIFLORETS WITH GARLIC

4 cups cauliflorets

4 cloves garlic, crushed

Juice of 1 lemon

1-2 Tbsp olive oil

Flaky salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees Celsius.

Place the cauliflorets in a plastic bag. Combine the remaining ingredients and add to the bag. Move the cauliflower around so it is well coated. Tip into a small roasting pan. Roast for about 20 minutes, until the cauliflower is tender when pierced with a skewer.

Excellent garnished with grated parmesan cheese or chopped parsley. Serves four to six.

BABY TURNIPS WITH SWEET DRESSING

290g baby turnips, trimmed

1 1/2 Tbsp cider vinegar

2 tsp runny honey

2 tsp Dijon-style mustard

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

1 Tbsp olive oil

2 Tbsp finely chopped mint

Simmer the turnips in salted water for about 10 minutes or until just tender. Drain thoroughly. Meanwhile, whisk the vinegar, honey, mustard and pepper in a bowl, until smooth.

Heat the olive oil in a small frying pan. Add the turnips, turning for a few minutes until lightly coloured.

Add the vinegar mixture and stir until the turnips are well coated and the glaze is thick. Add the mint, mix well and serve. Serves four.

copyright Jan Bilton

- The Marlborough Express