Onions; lords of the rings

BY JAN BILTON

The versatility of this vegetable means there's an onion for almost every occasion.

In terms of their versatility, onions run rings around most other vegetables. They can be eaten raw, roasted, baked, braised, boiled, stuffed, sauteed, fried or creamed.

Mild onions such as chives, leeks and spring onions are ideal for adding to delicate-tasting dishes. When purchasing, check that chives and spring onions have fresh, tender green tops. The latter should also have narrow white bulbs and thin skins.

Rustic brown-skinned onions come on strong and this makes them, together with garlic, essential ingredients in literally hundreds of dishes.

They should have a firm flesh, crisp, papery skins and no green sprouts.

French onion soup is one of the most popular onion dishes in the world. However, the soup originated in Lyon and should be correctly known as soupe a l'oignon a la lyonnaise.

The cheap, everyday ingredients which make up this delicious dish were probably first combined by the Canuts – the poor labourers of Lyon's famous 19th-century silk industry – as a tummy-filling warmer to keep them going through the long nights.

Shallots add a subtle but delicious flavour to all manner of savoury dishes.

Like onions and garlic, shallots belong to the Allium (lily) family, but they are smaller and sweeter than an onion and much less pungent than garlic.

Sweet onions, such as the red or white-skinned varieties, are excellent added raw to salads and hamburgers. Cooked, they become key ingredients in chutneys, marmalades and jams.

Onions should be stored in a cool, dry place with good ventilation.

Spring onions and chives should be kept in the vegetable crisper and used within a few days.

Peeling and chopping onions can be a real tear jerker. Cold reduces the volatility of the sulphuric compounds that irritate the eyes. Chilling onions in the refrigerator before peeling may help or try peeling onions under running water.

SAVOURY SHALLOT SCONES

Filling:

1 cup thinly sliced shallots

2 Tbsp olive oil

1 Tbsp each: brown sugar, red wine vinegar

Scones:

2 cups flour

3 tsp baking powder

1/4 tsp salt

50g tasty cheddar cheese, finely grated

1 large egg

3/4 cup milk

Topping:

1 shallot, finely sliced

25g tasty cheddar cheese, finely grated

fresh rosemary sprigs

In a small saucepan, saute the shallots in the olive oil over low heat, until soft and translucent. Stir in the brown sugar and vinegar and simmer until reduced. Cool.

To make the scones, sift the dry ingredients into a bowl. Stir in the grated cheese. Beat the egg and milk and blend into the dry ingredients to form a stiff dough.

Preheat the oven to 200 degrees Celsius. Line a baking tray with baking paper.

On a lightly floured bench, knead the dough lightly about three or four times then divide in half. Pat into two oblongs about 30 centimetres by 12cm. Top one half with the shallot mixture. Place on the baking tray and top with the remaining dough. Cut into 10 squares. Dot with the topping ingredients.

Bake for 15-20 minutes or until cooked. Best served warm. Makes 10.

TRADITIONAL FRENCH ONION SOUP

Prepare a bouquet garni by bunching sprigs of thyme, rosemary, sage, parsley and a bay leaf together and tying together with string.

2 Tbsp olive oil

50g butter

1kg onions, thinly sliced

2 cloves garlic, crushed

4 Tbsp flour

2 litres beef stock, heated

1 1/2 cups dry white wine

1 bouquet garni

freshly ground salt and black pepper

1/2 cup port

Topping:

8 slices French bread

2 large cloves garlic, crushed

1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil

1/2 cup each: finely grated gruyere, parmesan cheese

Heat the oil and butter in a large saucepan, until the butter stops foaming. Add the onions and cook over low heat until transparent and soft, about 20-30 minutes, stirring from time to time. Do not brown.

Add the garlic. Sprinkle in the flour, stir well, then add the heated stock, wine and bouquet garni. Simmer for 30-40 minutes, until well flavoured. Season and add the port. Remove the bouquet garni.

Meanwhile, toast the slices of French bread. Combine the garlic and olive oil. Brush each side of the bread with the garlic oil. Combine the cheeses and sprinkle on the bread.

Pour the soup into bowls or a tureen and float the bread on top. Place under a hot grill, until melted. Serve immediately. Serves six to eight.

RED ONION & ORANGE SALAD

1 large red onion

2 large oranges

1/2 small cucumber, sliced

Dressing:

1/4 cup wine or cider vinegar

1 tsp sugar

1/2 tsp salt

1/4 tsp chilli powder

1/4 cup olive or canola oil

Peel and thinly slice the onion. Soak in icy water for 30 minutes to remove pungency. Drain well. Peel the oranges, removing the pith. Slice and remove any pips. Layer the oranges, onion and cucumber in a salad bowl.

Whisk the vinegar and seasonings until well combined, then slowly whisk in the oil. Heat for 30 seconds in microwave or a saucepan to develop the flavour. Pour over the salad. Great garnished with chopped parsley. Serves four to six.

CHINESE EGG FLOWER SOUP

Spring onions are an essential ingredient in many Chinese recipes. This simple, nourishing soup is prepared in a few minutes. The beaten egg will set in strands when drizzled into the boiling soup.

2 medium tomatoes, peeled and quartered

1 medium onion, sliced

1 clove garlic, crushed

1 Tbsp rice bran oil

6 cups good chicken stock

salt and pepper to taste

1 large egg, lightly beaten3 spring onions, chopped

Stir-fry the tomatoes, onion and garlic in oil in a saucepan over medium heat for five minutes.

Add the stock and seasonings and simmer until the onion is soft.

Slowly pour the beaten egg into the gently simmering soup, stirring constantly.

Serve immediately, garnished with the spring onions.

Serves four to six.

Copyright Jan Bilton

- The Marlborough Express