Between heaven and earth
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The magnificent mountain top monastries of Meteora mesmerise BRENDA WEBB, who visits them while touring northern Greece.
I'd seen photos of Greece's Meteora monasteries before, but nothing quite prepared me for the spectacular sight of these amazing buildings perched on top of massive pinnacle like rocks.
The rocks themselves are an astounding sight, jutting hundreds of metres up from the Thessaly valley floor.
As you get closer you realise that half a dozen of these rocks actually have cleverly disguised monasteries sitting on them.
When they were built in the 14th century as hidden refuges, the monasteries were accessible only by rope ladders and later, baskets pulled up by windlass.
It's mind boggling to think of those early monks climbing up the sheer rocks and carting up bricks and stones, let alone building on such perilous sites! Today the monasteries are all linked by sealed roads and most have bridges, stairs and ramps hewn into the rocks making access far less hair raising than it once was.
Meteora is just north of the town of Trikala, 330km north west of Athens.
We arrived there late afternoon after a long and tiring drive over narrow and winding roads from Preveza, on the west coast.
Booking in to a pension at the base of the rocks, we set off for an early evening walk just as the sun was setting, throwing amazing light onto the rocks.
We marvelled at the sight of the monasteries seemingly suspended in the clouds as twilight mist swirled in to surround the rocks.
The next morning we were woken at dawn by the bells from Moni Agiou Nikoalou Anapafsa calling the monks to prayer and echoing around the valley.
Of the original 24 Meteora monasteries, only eight remain today and of those, six are open to the public.
The area has been declared a World Heritage Sight and is one of the most visited in Greece after The Acropolis. Even in mid October when we visited, there were dozens of buses spilling their Asian, German, English and American tourists into the area.
While the six main monasteries are open to the public, the monks and nuns choose what you can see and it's usually only the courtyard, chapel and a token monk's cell. You are not free to wander, which is a bit of a shame but understandable as they are still working monasteries.
You can walk between the monasteries, following the old paths that wind their way between rocks, or you can drive.
Whatever way you do it, make sure you go early to avoid the masses. It's quite possible to see all monasteries in one day and with admission at only $4 each, it's an affordable experience.
Strict dress codes apply no bare shoulders and men must wear trousers and women skirts below the knee. Baggy skirts are provided.
The views from the monasteries are spectacular and it's quite a chilling experience to stand near the rock edge, peer down and try and fathom just how these early monks coped with the rope ladders and baskets. Obviously vertigo was not an issue! All monasteries are impeccably maintained, not surprising now that they receive healthy grants from the EU now they are recognised as a World Heritage Site.
Thankfully one of the best monasteries to visit, Moni Agias Triados, is also the most inaccessible, reached by walking several hundred metres down a steepish ramp before ascending up steep and narrow stairs.
The tour buses don't even bother stopping here and we had the place to ourselves along with the vivid image of James Bond, as this monastery was used for the filming of For Your Eyes Only.
We also visited Moni Varlaam which features some late Byzantine frescoes and Moni Agiou Stefanou which is run by commerce minded nuns who sell a huge range of overpriced and tacky souvenirs from several shops on site.
Named Meteora by St Anthanasios, the rocks were seen as being between heaven and earth, offering a ladder of spiritual elevation.
They also provided a safe and private refuge for the monks, who wanted peaceful havens away from the bloodshed of the Turkish invasion into Greece.
Monastic life in the Orthodox Church entails holiness, Godliness and prayer. Monks toil day and night, fast, carry out hard manual work and pray.
The first trace of life at Meteora goes back to the 11th century when desert dwellers began living in the caves.
It was in the 14th century that St Athanasios formed the first organised monastery on the largest rock, which rises 610m.
His monastery, Moni Magalou Meteorou, became the richest and most powerful thanks to the Serbian emperor Symeon Uros who became a monk, bringing his considerable wealth with him.
Lying beneath Meteroa is the sprawling town of Kalambaka, and the much smaller and more atmospheric town of Kalastraki.
Both towns are littered with a wide range of hotels from small and cheap pensions through to high-class hotels, including the brand new Hotel Meteora, set on a rise with stupendous views towards the rocks. The towns themselves offer little in the way of history Kalambaka having been razed by the Nazis in World War II.
But who needs history in the towns when such amazing places rise above you, visible from everywhere in either town.
Magical Meteroa a wonderful experience.
- © Fairfax NZ News
