Experience flows through Two Rivers

BY DEBBIE WALTON AND PETER MORICE

It was great to get word from Dave Clouston: "It's about time you tried my wines!" Established in 2004, Two Rivers of Marlborough is a relatively new label, taking its name from the rivers that feed the wine-growing heart of Marlborough's Awatere and Wairau valleys.

Dave Clouston spent his childhood in the Awatere Valley, overlooking the magnificent braided Awatere River. Dave now lives in the Wairau Valley where he has made his home and career. Dave's first vintage was in 1996 at the Stoneleigh winery, not far from Blenheim. He was just 19 at the time. From this point the winemaking experience went from strength to strength. Dave headed to the United States later in 96 where he did the harvest in Oregon.

"After contracting the winemaking bug during those two vintages, I returned home to New Zealand and studied wine science in Hawke's Bay – by correspondence with Charles Stuart University in Australia.

"Once I had completed my winemaking studies I spent two years working vintages in various wineries throughout New Zealand, Australia and the Unites States before securing a "flying winemaker" position based in the south of France.

"I worked as a flying winemaker for four years making wine in different wineries throughout Spain, France and Chile. I also did three vintages on the Mediterranean island of Corsica – making one million litres of rose."

Dave then took up a junior winemaker's role at Capel Vale, at Margaret River in Western Australia. After 22 vintages he returned home in 2003 to work as production winemaker for Mount Riley wines and establish his own wine label, Two Rivers of Marlborough.

Today Dave makes his wine at a small contract winemaking facility. He says this allows him to put his capital into buying super premium grapes.

Dave has seven contract growers spread throughout the "two rivers", all of whom are old family friends – farmers who have gone on to plant grapes. Dave says he works very closely with the growers, which allows him to pick and choose the best fruit. Two Rivers of Marlborough currently produces 5000 cases of sauvignon blanc, pinot gris, pinot noir and riesling.

Two Rivers of Marlborough 09 Convergence Sauvignon Blanc

Aroma: A lovely sweet/savoury nose with some definite lime and tinned tropical fruit notes. There's a creamy, soft, almost figgy whiff – very interesting.

Taste: Soft acids and some lovely chewy tropical fruitiness combine in this rather luscious, creamy sauvignon blanc. There's some softer melon flavour and a generous dollop of passionfruit that swings out to a drying lime and mineral finish that's almost dusty.

Nicely textured, we later noted a portion of the wine had been aged on natural yeast lees in French barrels for three months. This is a smart move – it adds more depth and makes it a more satisfying wine.

Price: Around $22.

Thornbury 08 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc

Aroma: A rich yet refreshing blend of nettles, brisk herbaceousness, blackcurrant fruitiness and some sweat. The richer fruit and savoury aromas are enhanced by a light "canned" whiff.

Taste: Brisk tingly acids, an underlying creaminess and a lovely melange of flavours set the scene front of palate. Tropical fruit and some savouriness sweep across the palate out to a finish that's crisp, slightly sweet and citrusy.

Price: A rich, rewarding wine that has good balance – priced right at $19.99.

Selaks 08 The Favourite Pinot Gris, Hawke's Bay

Currently in the process of being re-branded – look out for later vintages under The Winemaker's Favourite.

Aroma: Creamy, syrupy, pears, figs, tinned fruit-perfumed – light but interesting

Taste: All the action is right here – which is quite often the way where pinot gris is concerned. Unctuous, heavy palate-weight teams up with good flavour concentration – plenty of pears and stone fruit here, with a rich fig-like taste running from start to finish.

This wine wraps up with creamy caramel and a touch of spice in the long lovely aftertaste.

Price: A really good example and excellent value at around $20.

Seresin 08 Pinot Gris Marlborough

Aroma: Rich and caramel creamy with some scented notes – lychee, guava, fig and a dash of mineral. An exciting aroma that promises much ...

Taste: A lovely wine – nicely balanced with its tingly acid and ripe, rich fruitiness. Mouth-filling, unctuously textured and aromatic; we loved the spiciness and delightful nougat nuttiness. The very best pinot gris varietals have these rich, ripe, creamy fruit flavours.

They are substantial wines with unctuous texture – there's nothing thin or blousy about them.

Price: $28 and highly recommended.

- The Marlborough Express