And from Austria too

A story of the incredible bulk

BY DEBORAH WALTON AND PETER MORICE

A few weeks back we received an interesting report on the state of the Austrian wine industry "during these difficult economic times".

We seldom hear much about what's going on in Austria – an increasingly important wine producer in central Europe. It produces more wine than Germany per annum and has the advantage of making wines that often tend towards a more full-bodied style than those of its neighbour.

The majority of Austria's wines are white, varietal and dry in style. The report stated that Austrian wine exports for the first half of 2009 were crisis-proof due to a 10 per cent rise in volume while earnings remained stable.

It appears Austria, like New Zealand, experienced a very big harvest in 2008 and has also had to manage it carefully. Austria's most important export market is Germany and what has happened there is interesting in light of what has been going on with New Zealand exports, particularly in regard to bulk wine.

Bottled wine sales underwent a slight drop in volume – 4.5 per cent – while there was a rise in actual value of 1.15 per cent. This was because Austrian wines have been increasingly successful in German supermarkets and discount stores.

With bulk wine exports there was a 30 per cent increase in volume yet at the same time, a 3 per cent drop in recorded profit. This was laid at the feet of the difficulties of the international bulk wine market, which had been felt domestically as well.

Overall, with the most important sales partners in Germany, there was a 9 per cent rise in quantities and a slight increase in value of 0.5 per cent.

In Switzerland (Austria's second main market) the volume of bottled wine exports increased by 17.7 per cent and bulk wine volume by 43 per cent. Bottled wine earnings declined by 3 per cent while bulk wine earnings increased by nearly 8 per cent.

We read this report with some disappointment as it appears that bulk wine is thumping premium bottle sales for producers in a number of countries. It would be interesting to know how many other countries encountered bumper crops in 2008 apart from Austria and New Zealand.

While Austrian export figures are looking positive considering the economic climate, sales need to be skewed towards the premium end of the market, not bulk wine sales.

In fact, the Austrian wine exports report sounded very familiar – "Perhaps by the end of this year we may reach again the level of record export earnings set in the previous year. In any case, there should be a significant rise in export volume this year."

The New Zealand wine industry has achieved $1 billion in wine exports and is working hard to maintain a reputation broadly based on quality rather than quantity.

We hope that while the New Zealand industry sets about maintaining this good reputation the rising tide of wine from other countries doesn't become something of a tsunami we have to contend with alongside our own burgeoning production in a time of recession.

Goldridge Estate Premium Reserve 08 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc

Aroma: A prickly, sweaty aroma that is intense, steely and carries a vague whiff of very ripe tropical fruit. Given a good shake-up some zingy, grass and gooseberry notes provide some lift.

Taste: Some vigorous acids and lemon flavour are backed by a creamy sensation. Warm, grassy notes and nutty savouriness mid-palate soon give way to some mineral austerity back of palate; that mineral taste stays put in the slightly bitter grapefruit finish and aftertaste. A bit different but not terribly exciting.

Price: $19.00.

Opawa 08 Marlborough Pinot Gris

Aroma: Apples, pears and nougat – not particularly forthcoming aromas until you give the glass a good shake to release the more scented notes – particularly plum blossom and ripe pear skins.

Taste: Warm, spicy and full of pear and light stone-fruit flavours. There's that typical pear skin bitterness towards the finish and some gingery spice in the aftertaste. Overall a refreshing pinot gris ready to go for summer.

Price: $22.95.

Yealands Estate 08 Marlborough Riesling

Aroma: Lemon sherbet, some honeysuckle, mineral and kerosene notes. A gentle, fresh and appealing aroma.

Taste: A refreshing wine that's a delicate blend of lemon and lime with some flintiness and the merest hint of honeyed kerosene coming through. The finish and aftertaste are citrusy and slightly sweet with an almost tropical edge to the flavours. A light style that might prove a little delicate for some.

Price: Around $18.

Bladen 07 Marlborough Merlot Malbec

Colour: Deep cherry red with flashes of purple.

Aroma: Chocolate, Marmite and spice notes team up with an appealing blend of ripe berry fruit and old plum aromas.

Taste: Vibrant acids and supple tannins combine with ripe plum and bitter chocolate flavours in this pleasant wine. The flavour becomes intensely herbal towards the finish then everything softens, the fresh berry fruit flavours become more pronounced and the green, slightly drying finish begs you pour another glass. A very pleasant blend – one to go with a gourmet barbecue with good friends!

Price: Around $30.

- The Marlborough Express