Think pink

For Christmas cheer

by Debbie Walton & Peter Morice - The Marlborough Express

Sparkling wine and Christmas celebrations go hand in hand, but sometimes it's fun to do things differently. Imagine a table set for Christmas lunch, and among the sparkle and festive touches are wine glasses frosted by the cool, freshly poured rose that almost glows in its enticing pinkness.

This year we've selected one sparkling and a selection of roses for our pre-Christmas reviews. Rose is attractive and has the same versatility as sparkling wine in terms of wine and food matching.

"In the south of France, rose wines are king," says Peter.

"There's always a rose list with five or six options, and in autumn, when the weather is still warm, it's a great choice. We were there two years ago, and while I enjoyed some fantastic game dishes, my partner Kris was keen on the seafood – and rose was always the perfect match."

Peter recalls overlooking the valley from Venasque, a hilltop village built on a huge rock, on one particular evening. Somewhat fittingly (for a cot case like Peter), they stayed in the Rue de l'Hopital.

"The entrance door to our apartment was circa 1300 – it had once given entry to troops needing hospital care. It was incredible to stop and think about all the people that had passed through that door over the centuries."

Venasque was a strategic post during times of war due to its lofty and virtually impregnable position.

Domaine Chandon Pinot Noir Rose 2008

Aroma: This salmon pink wine has strawberry, vanilla and mineral aromas. It's slightly dusty, and there are some subtle rose petal notes that are very attractive.

Taste: A drying, mineral palate with soft tannins that delivers a lick of sweeter cherry fruit towards the finish.

This dry, delicate wine has a crisp finish and aftertaste that lingers; it teams well with blue cheese and wafers.

Price: $27.95.

McBride-Sillig Vineyard Franc Rose 09, Awatere Valley

This rose is made with cabernet franc, which sets it apart from the majority of Kiwi roses. The skin of the cabernet franc grape is thicker, so there's more body and structure within the fruit flavours.

The cabernet franc in this wine was originally planted for blending with cabernet sauvignon used in Vavasour's Dashwood Cabernet. That was until 2004, when the cab sav was removed.

Due to the cabernet franc's excellent performance, the decision was made to keep these vines and use them for production of rose that's closer to the traditional French style. Vavasour produced it from 2005 until the McBride-Silligs progressively took over control of production.

Colour: Deep rose pink.

Aroma: Lifted cherry and apple aromas, herbal, slightly smoky, with some sweeter, softer vanilla and raspberry lolly notes to round things out.

Taste: Very silky and unctuous across the palate, with plenty of concentrated sweet fruit – almost nectar-like. Tingly acids and spicy, rich poached fruit flavours remind us of rhubarb crumble due to some interesting tannic notes.

In the transition to the finish and aftertaste, there's a tannic zap, then creamy soft fruit and crumble pie notes. Delightful.

Price: $24.95 and, due to limited availability, available only through the website mcbridesillig.co.nz or email Corinne@mcbridesillig.co.nz

Dolbel Estate Hawke's Bay Rose 2008

Dolbel's rose is made from free-run merlot juice, and managing director Andy Nurse made the comment that this was a "bigger" rose than usual, so the idea of using it as a summer aperitif under-rates its potential.

We agree, and that's why the wine is featured here. It will match most Kiwi Christmas fare – ham, turkey, chicken or salmon – and you can keep pouring as dessert is served, thanks to the strawberry and cherry flavours that predominate.

Colour: Salmon pink.

Aroma: Cherries, marshmallows, woody with just the slightest whiff of oily fish.

Taste: Juicy, succulent, creamy – the concentrated taste of ripe cherries cannot be ignored in this very fruit-driven wine. Lashings of cream and pastry flavour flesh things out. This wine has a powerful alcoholic finish and aftertaste, with some green herbal notes adding some zest to the flavour spectrum.

Price: Great value at $19.50.

Brown Brothers 2004 Patricia Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier Brut

Colour: Straw with a fine bead – always an attractive look.

Aroma: This wine has a rich, apple cider aroma that sits perfectly with those lovely autolytic notes – toast, butter and pastry – all the goodies. Rich yet somehow fresh on the nose, this is a glorious start.

Taste: There aren't any sharp edges to this one – a rich, fat, opulent sparkling with loads of full-bodied creaminess courtesy of the 23 per cent pinot meunier (the secret to some really great-tasting bubbly). The taste of ripe apples and shortbread waltzes out to a crisp, dry citrus finish and aftertaste that still retains some of those moreish, creamy characters.

This wine is perfectly integrated, the flavours are seamless, and the overall impression is of absolute elegance.

Something a little different for your Christmas table.

Price: $39.95.