Getting agrip on flavours from Italy
BY DEBORAH WALTON AND PETER MORICE
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Wine
Earlier this month, I wrote of a comment overheard at dinner: "Italian wines are no good."
At the time, I saw red (and the average Aussie red that arrived at the table didn't help matters) but felt it prudent to stay silent. Ever since, I have been wondering how many other people harbour the same sentiment.
Italy has one of the world's longest histories of continuous wine production; it is one of the greatest wine producers, and delivers an incredibly diverse range of styles.
Italy makes about twice as much red wine as white, and its most famous wines are reds. Having said this, it also produces many fine whites that should not be overlooked.
Cheap imports have a lot to answer for in moulding people's opinions. Chianti and pinot grigio (pinot gris) are probably the first ones to come to mind when people think of Italian wines.
Pinot grigio is, in our opinion, an average example of what a good Italian white should be. Typically dry and quite refreshing, a pinot grigio is easy to drink on its own and can pair with almost any food – mainly because the wine lacks any real character. This said, there are some fine exceptions – but, as with anything, you have to pay for quality. We recommend Danzante Pinot Grigio 2006.
Other varieties worth considering include moscato, arneis or even an oaky chardonnay. A while back, we reviewed a pleasant Sicilian white, Insolio 2005. Soave (from small producers) and frascati could also be good options, but you get what you pay for – and please, skip any fancy bottles shaped like fish and other quirky objects.
Chianti, often traditionally packaged in a raffia- or straw-covered bottle, was always a popular drop because it looked exotic. There are two types of chianti: the classico (and classico riserva) and the rufina. The classico will sport a numbered black rooster seal at its neck – it's a very good wine and, as is expected, the more you pay, the better the quality will be. A high-quality chianti classico will be made from 100 per cent Sangiovese.
The rufina comes from the northeastern zone of Chianti, and is also a very good red wine – and as the quality has risen since the 1990s, so has the price. Go for the higher-priced versions and sidestep the raffia-bound bottles – you're better off paying for the contents of the bottle rather than the bottle itself.
Italian wines are diverse in range and complex in style. Many of the classics are blends, and the labels can be difficult to understand.
To explore Italian reds, start with chianti, barolo or perhaps a montepulciano, but go for good producers. That means spending a little more money for a far more enjoyable introduction. We also recommend negro a mano ("a mano" translates as "by hand"), a red wine from the "heel of the boot". As your confidence grows, move on to other brands and styles. Remember, many Italian wines are blends from specific regions, and you'll be buying a regional wine rather than a varietal.
Asti spumante also deserves a mention. Spumante means sparkling in Italian, but the word has become irretrievably linked with sweeter sparkling wines. The word spumante has also been hijacked by the Americans to indicate a sweet sparkling in the asti style.
There's absolutely nothing wrong with the genuine asti spumante – the taste is quite lovely. However, even the producers of classic asti are distancing themselves from those who have purloined the word spumante and applied it to cheap, sweet plonk. Classic asti will often not have the word spumante on the label.
Wines from Europe do taste different to New Zealand's upfront, fruity styles. Those inherent differences are what makes trying something new so interesting. And one thing's for certain – Italian wines do not deserve an across-the-board slating.
Next week: Reading Italian wine labels.
Harwood Hall Marlborough Pinot Gris 2008
Aroma: Some exotic gewurztraminer notes are most obvious – rose petals, ripe stonefruit, vanilla and syrupy tinned pears; overall, a rich, promising aroma.
Taste: Unctuous, some rich stonefruit and pear flavours that sit well beside some flinty, stony notes. There's the trademark dollop of pear skin bitterness towards the finish, and the floral aromatics provide some interest if you throw the wine around your mouth a little. A big, warming wine with plenty to recommend it.
This is a wine that will age well – the mineral and acid characteristics will stand it in good stead.
Price: Around $19.95.
Seresin Momo 09 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc
Aroma: Gentle hops, floral notes and a delicate pungency. Some mineral characters, melon and a fleeting whiff of gooseberry complete the picture. The tingly acids tickle the nose.
Taste: There's a spritzig sensation when sampling this wine. The melon and citrus palate is light but appealing, and some mineral grip towards the finish provides some interest.
This is a light, easy-drinking sauvignon blanc that delivers a wash of light, refreshing flavour, with some lush, ripe pineapple notes jazzing things up. The finish is clean and leaves a mild citrus aftertaste.
Not a biggie for depth of flavour, but very pleasant and a good thirst quencher.
Price: $19.95.
- The Marlborough Express
