Mystery of Italian wine labels revealed

BY DEBORAH WALTON AND PETER MORICE

Italian wine labels can be a challenge, so approach them with a sense of adventure. Here are some points to help you find your way.

At the very top there will usually be a brand name; this is followed by the wine name, such as Dolcetto, Montepulciano or Arneis. Many Italian wines are named after a place – Barolo, Soave and Chianti are some examples.

This isn't necessarily helpful because unless you know the blend or varieties for which the region is famous, you are in unknown territory.

Some labels will carry the name of the grape variety followed by the place where the grape was grown; Barbera d'Alba means barbera (the grape variety) grown in Alba.

To throw a spanner in the works, some Italian wine names have anomalies. Wines from Montalcino have long been famous and considered "fine" or "noble". For this reason "vino Nobile di Montalcino" or "noble wine of Montalcino" appears on the label.

The vintage date will also be prominent. In Italy, at least 85 per cent of the wine in the bottle must be from the vintage on the bottle. Alongside the vintage date you may see the words "annata" which means "year" or "vendemmia" meaning "harvest".

The most challenging aspect of the typical Italian wine label is the quality designation or "Denominazione di Origine Contollata", also known as DOC. DOC wines represent those regarded as quality wines by European wine law and are subject to certain controls.

In his book, The New Sotheby's Wine Encyclopaedia, Tom Stevenson points out that, at the time of writing, there were more than 250 DOCs, but because some are multiple varietal appellations covering as many as 12 different wines, there are more than 600 DOC names. The classification claims an increasing number of the greatest Italian wines but includes a large proportion of the poorest.

Other quality categories are Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) which is the highest quality category and Vino da Tavola (VdT), a category that, as Stevenson says, covers most of Italy's plonk as well as some of its greatest wines.

The phrases "imbottigliatto all'origine da" or "messo in bottiglia nell'origine" or "del produttore all'origine" all mean the same thing – estate bottled. The producer or bottler's name will also be mentioned here.

The full volume is standard at 750ml or 75cl and the alcohol strength by volume will also appear on the label. There are a great many Italian terms regarding wine style or quality that may also appear on the label. Some of the most common ones are:

Riserva / Riserva speciale: DOC wines that have been matured for a statutory number of years bear these words – speciale wines are older still.

Vecchio: old

Secco: dry

Asciutto: very or bone dry

Abboccato: slightly sweet

Semi-secco: medium sweet

Amabile: sweeter than abboccato

Classico: the best part of a DOC zone – a word to look for on a label

Rosato: rose

Rosso: red

Bianco: white

Frizzante: semi sparkling

Spumante: sparkling

These are the most common descriptive words but there are many more worth looking into if you develop a passion for Italian wines. Unfortunately, the wine labels can appear muddled and unnecessarily difficult to understand.

This thought takes us back to the comment aired last week about the perceived quality of Italian wines in general. Italian wines are disadvantaged by the fact the country lacks distinct regional wine styles and drinkers have to find their own way around what is a confused state of affairs.

About a quarter of the world's wine is made in Italy and from our perspective it's a matter of diving in and trying some without fear or favour.

Saint Clair Family Estate 09 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc

Aroma: This wine has a definite savoury "sausage roll" aroma, and some powerful passionfruit and ticklish gooseberry notes. Given a shake-up it becomes rather pongy with a mineral whiff.

Taste: Ripe, tropical, with complementary tingle from soft acids. A tropical, grassy wine with a creamy lemon taste towards the finish; the sweet citrus flavour becomes a light wash on the aftertaste.

Price: A very pleasant sauvignon blanc, $20.95.

Goldridge Estate 08 Premium Reserve Barrique Fermented Marlborough Pinot Noir

Colour: Clear garnet with flashes of terracotta.

Aroma: A lovely chocolate, cherry, tamarillo nose with some lovely smoky, woody notes. A whiff of mushroom and forest floor leafiness adds to the delight.

Taste: A juicy, fruity, spicy wine with some subtle oak and soft, slightly green tannins. There's some muskiness and an earthiness that's very appealing.

Sweet, plummy, some chocolate and coffee flavours towards the finish and a herbal, drying after-taste.

This is a light bodied, easy-drinking pinot noir that delivers a fair whack of flavour.

Price: A pretty good pinot for the price, $21.95.

- The Marlborough Express