Fox and the grapes make a fine wine story

BY DEBORAH WALTON AND PETER MORICE

John Belsham is a name known to many in Marlborough – a wine judge, winemaker and consultant, he is also the owner of Foxes Island Wines.

The story behind the brand Foxes Island is an interesting one. Until relatively recent times, the Wairau and Opawa rivers would occasionally flood the Wairau Plain. Fortunately, there was a raised "island" area that consistently stood above the tumbling waters, providing explorers, herdsmen and travellers some safe ground.

The infamous Sir William Fox, a controversial politician, writer and explorer, regularly crossed the island to negotiate with the local Maori and it is from this history that the area, vineyard and winery were named.

John Belsham began making wines from his Foxes Island vineyard in 1992 and in November 2009, he went on to release Fox Junior. This new range of wines, comprising a sauvignon blanc and pinot noir from Marlborough, build on the history of Foxes Island. Sir William Fox was father to an adopted Maori son, William Fox Junior.

The Fox Junior wines are designed to deliver good quality and everyday value. From what we have tried so far, they meet that aim.

John Belsham says that Foxes Island has always been about small production, estate-driven wines that will always be limited in production. Fox Junior has resulted in the production of wines of a similar pedigree but at a more accessible price.

Another wine we look at this week is Ant Moore Pinot Gris. The fruit for this wine is grown at the Ant's Nest vineyard at Waihopai – named because it's the home block where he and his family live.

The vineyard is planted in pinot gris, sauvignon blanc and riesling and sits on a high terrace. This high-altitude grape-growing delivers low-vigour vines with correspondingly low yields with very good fruit flavours.

Ant Moore has made wine in other parts of the world but says he "found home" while working at Marlborough's Isabel Estate. He then bought his Waihopai property and went on to launch wine labels including Catalina Sounds (the 2009 won a trophy at the recent Air New Zealand Wine Awards) and Crowded House. Speaking of accolades, the Ant Moore Pinot Gris has won a blue gold at the Sydney International Top 100.

Finally, we take a look at Julicher (pronounced U-li-ker) Martinborough Pinot Noir, which won champion wine of the show (along with three other awards) at the Air New Zealand Wine Awards 2009.

Julicher Wines are all estate grown on 20 hectares of vineyard on the Te Muna Terraces. Te Muna means "secret place" and the Te Muna Terraces are an extension of the Martinborough Terraces about five kilometres east of Martinborough Village.

Wim Julicher came from Holland in 1972 and settled in the Hutt Valley, where he worked for 25 years in the building industry.

In 1996 he and his late wife bought the Te Muna property and planted olive trees – not counting on the severe frosts and disastrous winter of 1998 that wiped out 2000 trees, half the total planting. Not one to give up, Wim replanted the land in grapes and is now reaping the rewards.

Fox Junior Marlborough Pinot Noir 2008

Colour: A clear, bright, early cherry red.

Aroma: Cherries and some sweet smoky oak, violets and some intense herbal notes combine to create a very enticing aroma.

Taste: Ripe tannins are the key to this wine's success. It's young, fresh and vibrant, with some tingly acid and a lip-smacking fruity intensity.

The blend of spicy cherries and some toasty oak is complemented by the floral aromatics that deliver a taste of violets towards the finish.

A very palatable wine with a soft finish and light fruity aftertaste.

Price: $28.99 and good value.

Ant Moore Marlborough Pinot Gris 2009

Aroma: Rich and syrupy with plenty of stone fruit and pear aromas. There are some floral notes and we picked up a hint of aniseed – an aroma with quiet intensity.

Taste: Fleshy, fruity, spicy and very approachable. The ripe stone fruit flavours at the front of the palate sit well with the satiny texture of the wine.

The finish and aftertaste are gentle.

Price: 21.99.

Julicher Martinborough Pinot Noir 2008

Colour: Dark plum red on a black background.

Aroma: Intensely fruity, plenty of late-season cherries and old plums. The fruit aromas are sweet and fragrant, sitting well beside richer notes of chocolate and some savoury, Marmite and roast meat notes.

Taste: Smooth, soft and ripe, this luscious wine delivers a complex flavour profile – cherries, chocolate and spice along with a jot of peppermint and some musky smokiness.

The savouriness noted in the aroma comes through on the subtle, complex palate.

There's a pleasing tautness to the fruit flavours towards the finish – we hesitate to use the word astringency, as it is considered derogatory and that is certainly not the case here. This tautness balances the wine well and then it's a matter of savouring the long, lingering finish and aftertaste.

A harmonious wine to spend some reflective time with.

Price: Excellent buying at $42.

- The Marlborough Express