Almost lost, now found

BY DEBORAH WALTON AND PETER MORICE

Viognier is a "heat hungry" grape variety that does best in New Zealand's warmest grape growing regions. Pronounced "vee-yon-yay", it was almost lost to the world before it was rediscovered by winemakers in the new world. As recently as 1968 there were fewer than 14 hectares of viognier left in France, its traditional homeland.

Once the variety began to rise in popularity some interesting things have happened. Viognier is now successfully used in blends including roussanne, marsanne and chardonnay; one can only imagine the glorious potential of such a blend. As its popularity continues to grow, viognier is being planted in increasing quantities in countries including France, Italy, Argentina, Australia, Uruguay, Brazil and the United States. California produces a particularly alcoholic viognier that has been described as magnificent. Here in New Zealand, Montana describes viognier as a "truculent" variety with viticultural variation that the company's growers have managed to tame.

In order to find out more about viognier's ascendancy we turned to Michael Cooper's latest wine guide.

Cooper tells us that the area bearing vines is increasing steadily, from 15ha in 2002 to 174ha in 2010. About 80 per cent of the vines are grown around Hawke's Bay and Gisborne.

The vines can cope with drought but are prone to powdery mildew. Flowering and fruit set are often problematic so a reliable yield requires hard work and some clement weather.

We think it would be great to see the emergence of an intensely flavoured, aromatic wine that captures the collective imagination and gives a good nudge sideways.

Saint Clair Family Estate East Coast Viognier 2007

This wine is a blend of fruit grown in Gisborne (77 per cent) and Marlborough (23 per cent).

Aroma: Unmistakably apricot nectar with some floral notes, a jot of orange and a slightly yeasty whiff; very appealing.

Taste: This wine's oily texture sits well with the rich stone-fruit flavour. A full-bodied wine that delivers some herbal briskness (providing essential balance) and warming spice towards the slightly drying finish.

Worth a try for those who enjoy wines with generous sweet fruit flavours.

Price: Pretty sharp at just $20.95

Montana Showcase Gisborne Viognier 2008

Colour: It's worth mentioning the attractive pale gold.

Aroma: Stone fruit, toffee, orange peel and some savouriness not unlike sausage meat. A complex, rich liqueur-like aroma.

Taste: Another oily textured wine (something of a hallmark of New Zealand viognier). Front of palate softness and sweetness leads into a rich mid-palate blend of stone fruit and toffee, with just enough acid to keep some balance.

A creamy, supple wine with a lick of pear skin bitterness and some spicy aniseed flavour towards the finish. Those cream and toffee notes are the result of some maturation in old French oak.

The ripe, fruity liqueur-like finish rounds things out nicely. This is a big, full-bodied wine with some savouriness that adds to its complexity – well worth trying.

Price: $23.95

Matakana Estate Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2009

Aroma: Zesty and upfront; a pungent and inspiring blend of herbal notes tempered with richer tropical aromas – passionfruit and ripe lemon sit well with a mineral whiff. Some savouriness rounds out the aroma.

Taste: Vibrant lemon and zingy acid front of palate; slosh the wine around the mouth and that lemon flavour is enhanced by the taste of passionfruit and sweet grass.

Tending more herbaceous towards the finish, there's a hint of gooseberry that lends additional zest resulting in a clean finish that boasts some sweet lemon – lovely.

Price: $22.00

Vidal Reserve Hawke's Bay Chardonnay 2008

Aroma: Very biscuity with some lovely caramel, cream and peach aromas. A whiff of orange is obvious if the glass is given a good shake-up.

Taste: A big, beautiful wine with plenty of complexity. Peaches, cream and some ginger spice blend seamlessly with some nutty, savoury notes and the result is superb.

A gentle malic note adds some crispness and ensures good balance while the long, luxurious finish and aftertaste deliver a richness that hints at ripe orange and buttered biscuits.

Price: Perfect balance, elegance and a full palate make this wine excellent value at $30.00.

Brown Brothers Patricia King Valley Late Harvested Noble Riesling 2006

Colour: Old gold

Aroma: Beeswax, kerosene, citrus liqueur, apricots and cashews – an incredibly rich and promising combination.

Taste: Waxy, honeyed – a big, beautiful wine from start to finish. Very sweet, slightly cloying and best suited to rich, citrus-based desserts, this wine's combination of apricot, spice and tinned pineapple flavours is a standout. The pineapple and marmalade finish is rich, rewarding and exceptional. Surprisingly, this wine is only 8.5 per cent abv.

Price: $34.95 – spotted at a local supermarket and worth every penny.

- The Marlborough Express