True wilderness experience

Seven Spirit Bay in Australia's Top End

WILD LIFE: Out on a banteng buffalo tracking safari just before sunset. Paul Rush discovered a place in Australia's "Top End" where Land-Rovers have to chase water buffalo off the grass airstrip before small aircraft can land.

SURPRISING: The manicured oasis of Peppers Seven Spirit Bay resort rises out of the remote Cobourg Peninsula.

TASTY: Coral trout are a delicacy and a barbecue treat at Seven Spirit Bay.

PRIVACY: The cosy unit in the wilderness of the resort grounds, with an outdoor bathroom just along the path.

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Travel writer PAUL RUSH finds a perfect human habitat among the wilds of Arnhem Land.

I have discovered a place in Australia's "Top End" that's so remote and isolated that Land-Rovers have to chase water buffalo off the grass airstrip before small aircraft can land.

So, in the true spirit of adventure, I have joined an intrepid group in a hired Prado four-wheel-drive vehicle to negotiate winding bush tracks in an eight-hour drive from Darwin.

The tracks terminate at the northernmost tip of Arnhem Land at the Black Point Ranger Station. From there we are whisked by boat to the sweeping white sand beach of Coral Bay in Garig Gunak Barlu National Park on the Cobourg Peninsula.

I have come on the understanding that there is at least a vestige of civilisation in this faraway place that for centuries was a blank void on world maps designated Terre Nullus, as there was literally nothing here.

When we step ashore at the jetty, I'm completely taken aback by the surprising sight of a five-star resort with a swimming pool and manicured lawns nestling under gently swaying palms. The receptionist, Danka, greets us with a smile, welcoming us to the wilderness resort.

Guest accommodation at Peppers Seven Spirit Bay Resort is 23 large hexagonal units secluded in a bush setting linked by winding red brick paths. The units feature two queen-size beds, a space to make tea and coffee and floor-to-ceiling louvres.

My unit is immersed in the tropical forest, yet perfectly adapted for human occupation. It even has slippers, a bathrobe and a rechargeable torch.

Why do I need a torch? Ah, more surprises.

Ten metres along the path is a unique private bathroom. Half the circular structure is covered, lined with white tiles and provided with a shower and toilet. The other half is a garden with a profusion of tropical plants, open to the vastness of the Top End sky.

Performing ablutions in an outdoor setting is a novel experience, which encourages the belief that you are luxuriating in Shangri La or a latter-day Garden of Eden. That is if you don't mind sharing the loo with grinning geckos and tiny tree frogs and two obnoxious cane toads that have somehow achieved the remarkable feat of migrating here from the Queensland coast.

Wallabies sometimes enter the garden enclosures, too, which is an unexpected bonus.

I am keen to venture into the wilderness of the surrounding national park, so the next morning sees me riding shotgun in the Landcruiser with adventure guide Jo Jo.

The park preserves a mosaic of sandy beaches, dunes, grasslands, mangroves, rainforest, swamps and lagoons, criss-crossed by red dirt vehicle tracks.

Jo Jo drives through the savannah to a paperbark swamp, one of the few places that retain water in the dry season.

Without warning we stumble over a big black banteng buffalo and his harem of cows and calves. The great creature raises his 1-tonne bulk, swings his massive horns into the air, snorts in undisguised anger and casts a black, malevolent eye on us.

We stand stock-still, not daring to move. For a minute there is a standoff as neither side knows what to do. We don't want to precipitate any violent action, so quickly back-pedal out of the swamp and scramble back into the truck.

Driving on to Vashon Head, our group relaxes and sips champagne as the bright golden orb of the sun dips into the Arafura Sea.

Wildlife is an inescapable part of Seven Spirit Bay life. The staff adopted a 4-metre pet olive python called Ollie, which caused quite a stir when it curled up inside the shower box in the female staff quarters. The shower was off limits for several days. Ollie became very attached to an wallaby called Casino, who gambled with his life in befriending a python. One day Casino failed to appear on the lawn and Ollie was found with a satisfied smile on his face.

Water buffalo are inclined to think they own the place, too.

They found a big fella in the swimming pool one morning and it took some coaxing to get him out. Indonesian banteng cattle are not beyond playing practical jokes, either, and one gnarly old fellow pushed open an outside bathroom door, surprising a woman in the shower.

The lodge's central complex houses reception, a lounge bar, restaurant, library and conference room, all overlooking a freshwater swimming pool and Coral Bay.

Coral Bay is a beautiful sight from the palm-fringed pool decks, with Gilligan's Island seeming to float on the sparkling Arafura Sea.

Off to the left a beach curves away in a fine crescent of ivory sand. This is a "look but don't touch" scene where crocodiles, sharks and box jellyfish reign supreme.

I don't even think about paddling in the shallows and keep one eye on the perfectly placid sea while prising plump, juicy oysters off the reef at low tide.

Fishing around the Cobourg Peninsula is sensational and most of the guests take the fishing safari options. Tidal creeks are rippling with barramundi, mangrove jack and threadfin salmon, while the ocean teams with Spanish mackerel, giant trevally and queen fish. The word giant is not used lightly, as trevally can go to 30kg and barramundi and golden snapper can exceed 1m.

Our fishing excursion with guide Mike produced some fine queen fish, perch, golden snapper and trout. The last two species are particularly tasty and the chef barbecued them for our evening meal.

Aborigine clans live in complete harmony with the sea and the sunbaked land. They recognise seven annual seasons, hence the name of Seven Spirits Bay. The seven clear cycles are: lightning, thundering, rainmaking, greening, windstorming, fire-raging and cloudless blue.

Seven Spirit Bay is a unique combination of exquisite peace, serenity and untamed wilderness, where cocktails and stunning sunsets combine at the end of the day.

This bay has to be one of Australia's best secret hideaways a true wilderness experience that touches the soul and inspires the mind.

Getting There
Access to Peppers Seven Spirit Bay lodge is by light aircraft from Darwin (45 minutes). There is a luggage restriction of 10kg per person. Ground transport is provided to the lodge.

Packages Include
4WD touring in Kakadu National Park, rock art and billabong tours at Davidson's Safari Camp, sport fishing and honeymoon packages. An Arnhem Land entry permit fee of A$15 per person is payable.

Tropical Climate
Seven Spirit Bay is open from mid-March to mid-December each year. March-April temperatures average 31degrees celsius in the daytime and 23C at night. May-December temperatures average 33C in the daytime and 20C at night. Bring lightweight, cotton clothing, comfortable walking shoes, sun hat, sunscreen and a spirit of adventure.

Websites
www.tourismnt.com.au
www.sevenspsiritbay.com.au

» Paul Rush travelled to the Top End courtesy of Tourism Northern Territory

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