The word ... according to Strat

CHEERS: Barton on Wine

BY WARREN BARTON

For the first time ever more than 100 gold medals were awarded at this year's Air New Zealand Wine Awards, the country's most prestigious.

But for the moment I want to talk about just three of them, all earned by the same small producer and all for the same style of wine.

In fact, there was so little of each of the wines made that they are available only from the winery or by mail order.

Not that this is likely to dampen interest among those with a taste for sweet white wines, especially those lovingly crafted by Strat Canning at Margrain, in Martinborough.

And there is, I must admit, quite another reason for me wanting to tell you about this triple triumph and that is to let Strat describe each of the wines as he does in the tasting notes that he writes; notes that bring a breath of fresh air, eloquence and humour to an industry which sometime takes itself rather seriously.Over to Strat:Botrytis Selection 2009 Chenin Blanc, $38: The generous pond of deep golden colour, like the swish of the Vicar's stole on Sunday morning, heralds the serious nature of what is to follow. From the glass rises sweet honeydew melon, frangipani, and lush dried apricot aromas. Butterscotch, pungent rose water and crystallised ginger show classically what happens when the blessed rot invades defenceless ripe grapes. The first impression to thump home on the palate is the viscosity thick, creamy and uncommonly good, you can feel the tackiness between the tongue and cheek as if it might set at any moment. At the same time the wine is tantalisingly prickly like shattered ice swirling in a margarita mix during blending. Huge intensity with gushy flavours of sticky-dried figs and oven-fresh hokey pokey overwhelm the senses with a liveliness not seen since Iggy Pop first hit the stage bare-chested.

Powerful acidity engenders balance yet is so rounded and rolled into the myriad of other parameters that it is hard to identify in this truly seamless wine. A truly heavenly creature!

Botrytis Selection 2009 Sauvignon Blanc, $28: Sticky with all the dexterity of Robyn Hood dancing on the castle parapet – a laid back wine which is very easy to sip as it glides over the senses with the velvet ease of a well practiced lap dancer.

Chilled down on a balmy summer evening, the Christmas cake and ginger infused toffee-apple flavours will be a real conversation starter while the matchbox-tinder texture and tangy crispness impart a pearly lustre to the finish.

It shows a wry coyness, yet when left in the bottle overnight, this incorrigible youngster developed the intensity and depth of a wolf dressed in lambs clothing. If you're game, try it with a creamy cauliflower soup.

Botrytis Selection 2009 Riesling $38: The lush nose springboards from the glass and encapsulates the attention with heady aromas of boiled caramel lolly, overripe apricot kernel and fresh gingerbread men resplendent with M&M jacket buttons.

Some unabashedly brash yet sexy perfume allures and melds with lemon-honey dripping from hot crisp rye toast and there are hints of banana-bike chews and the muffled scent of sweet pumpkin pie. The palate is thick and lush and shows superb balance.

Over the years, many drinks have been described as an orgasm in a glass but I am warning you, hang on to your belt buckles, this is exquisite!

Suffice to say, the wines are gorgeous as are many of the others produced from vineyards that incorporate those planted by Martinborough pioneer Stan Chifney. And among the most sought after, believe it or not, is a glorious chenin blanc, which has become so popular among those in the know that more chenin has been planted to keep pace with demand.

Margrain also makes a completely dry and powerful pinot gris from some of the oldest vines in the country and has recently introduced La Michelle a methode traditional, which would have been perfect for the celebration that has no doubt already taken place in a quiet corner of Martinborough.

- © Fairfax NZ News