Using your eyes to spot changes is half the battle in solving gardening problems. Gardeners that keep their eyes open as they go around their gardens can spot problems as they begin to happen.
One of the best times to do this is while you are hand watering plants with the hose; while the right hand is holding the hose, you can fold back leaves with your left hand and check for pests or problems.
Some problems are seasonal and come in cycles and the knowing of these cycles also makes you aware to be on the lookout for them.
Aphids are in season at the moment and they can be found on your roses and some other plants.
On the roses they will be around the new growths and the flower buds. If you just leave them, their populations will quickly build up and this can effect the flowers and diminish the display.
Aphids suck the sap of the plants and, in doing so, remove the plant's energy resulting in poorer growth, twisted leaves and damaged flowers. Aphids are not hard to kill and if you only have a few roses you may simply run your fingers over the pests and gently squash them without harming the plant.
For those with a lot of roses, it is better to use a safe spray to knock them over such as Key Pyrethrum.
Late in the day just before dusk make up, say, five litres of spray using 5ml of Key Pyrethrum, 25ml of neem tree oil, and 50ml of Magic Botanic Liquid (MBL). The Pyrethrum is a quick knock down that should kill off most of the aphids within a day. The Neem Tree Oil will aid in the control of any missed, or new aphids arriving for the next seven or so days. This natural oil will also aid in the reduction of diseases such as black spot, rust, and mildews. The MBL will also assist in keeping the roses free of diseases, supply extra minerals to the foliage, and aid in the health of the plants.
The reason for spraying near dusk is that pyrethrum is quickly broken down by UV, In fact within a couple of hours, if sprayed earlier in the day. At dusk it is going to be active all night until the next day.
Now that your roses are coming into bud and flower, start applying about a teaspoon of Fruit and Flower Power every four to six weeks. The potassium aids in flowering, and the magnesium aids the deep green of the foliage.
In fact, any other plants that are coming into flowering or setting fruit will do better with a small regular dose of these two minerals.
Tomatoes will be doing well if in a sheltered, sunny spot. Those out in the open will be much slower to grow because of the weather and cold snaps.
I have kept most of my tomato plants in containers in the glasshouse, waiting for the weather to settle before starting to put them outdoors.
When I decide its time to put them out I will, a couple of days beforehand, give them a good spray with Vaporgard. This hardens the plants up and stops any transplant shock.
Tomatoes in containers must be given adequate water to prevent the compost from drying out, if not you will get blossom end rot, which is that black patch on the bottom of the fruit.
Removing laterals on tomatoes can allow diseases to enter the plant, which will often result in losses.
If botrytis enters the tomato where you remove a lateral or leaf, then it will cause a rotting on a branch or on the trunk. The plant begins to wilt and the wilting progressively gets worse until a branch or the whole plant is lost. There are two rules you must follow when removing laterals (side shoots) or leaves, do not do so when the air is moist as moist air carries the disease spores. Next, as soon as you remove a lateral, spray the damaged area with a squirt of Liquid Copper.
You can make up the copper in a small trigger sprayer and as long as you give it a good shake before using each time it will keep well.
Strawberries planted in winter should be doing well by now and if they are first-year plants, still a bit on the small size, you should remove some of the early flowers so the plants can grow bigger before you let them fruit.
Spray the strawberry plants every two weeks or so with Mycorrcin.
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