Travel: Harbour a hope
By FINBARR BUNTING - Sunday News
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MY hopes for a romantic Australian getaway hit a speed-bump when my partner and I broke up just a fortnight before we left. However, she agreed to still join me on the trip, giving me the opportunity to win her back, with a little help from Sydney.
Astra Limousines greeted us on arrival at Sydney airport. It wasn't a gauche stretch number but a slick BMW, complete with new car smell. It was service in silence as we were driven to our first port of call, Blue Sydney, our hotel in Woolloomooloo.
The hotel, built inside the Woolloomooloo wharf building, was incredible. It was used for wool export for much of the 20th century but is now more famously Russell Crowe's Sydney residence. It's a great example of industrial architecture, and the largest timber-piled building in the world.
I'm sure I glimpsed a hint of a smile on my ex's face as we walked into our immaculately-presented room. The bath was big and inviting and the bed king-size. The view stretched over Sydney's Botanic Gardens almost to Mrs Macquarie's Chair, the favourite spot of a home-sick governor's wife during the 1800s. The following morning we headed to Manly surf school for a lesson. Instructor James met me outside North Steyne surf club. He showed me the board I would use. It looked like a table. I'd have been a bit embarrassed if I hadn't stood up, but I did and carving up the one or two foot waves impressed my ex, who was sunning herself on the beach. James was floating in the water, looking freezing, but doing his best to whoop and holler every time I made it up.
The next day's planned outing was a trip on the harbour with Captain Cook Cruises. The pick-up was Circular Quay and the ship cruises the harbour stopping at points of interest including Watsons Bay, famous for its seafood restaurant Doyles; Shark Island, a popular picnic spot; Luna Park, Sydney's harbour theme park; The Rocks and Taronga Zoo.
That day I had an ace up my sleeve in my bid to woo back my ex. I had overheard mention of the cuteness of a recently-born elephant at Taronga Zoo. Named Luk Chai because of his Thai heritage, he was born in July to Thong Dee, who worked as a Bangkok street elephant before emigrating.
He managed to put my ex in a good mood and she grabbed my arm with excitement when she saw him.
We also made it to the seal show, and saw the star-performer Mav, a New Zealand fur seal, another expat Kiwi making waves in his new home across the ditch.
Next stop on the cruise was Shark Island, but my ex's face fell when she realised I hadn't organised a picnic.
We continued onwards to Watsons Bay, and ate at Doyles. There wasn't much beyond the beach, so we left soon after lunch. The boat ride was impressive, past the palatial houses of Bellevue Hill, one of Sydney's most expensive suburbs.
We spent the afternoon taking in views of Sydney harbour, "the most beautiful harbour in the world" according to our tour-guides. They had a point. By then the ex was tired, and with her head resting on my shoulder, I felt the lack of picnic may have been forgotten.
Our last day of planned activities involved a Tall Ship ride around the harbour. During the night, the city was struck by the now famous dust storm. Literally millions of tonnes of the stuff blanketed the city. I woke up in hell, bright red light streaming into the room, convinced we'd be landlocked. My ex was worried and desperate to avoid the thick red dust, but reassured by Marc, the Sydney Tall Ships rep, and myself, she agreed to come.
The Tall Ship is a replica boat built in the 1920s to resemble the old ships that were in operation during the mid-1800s. The huge blue sail ship slowly creaked its way around the harbour, past all the tourist sites we'd seen on the cruise ship, but at a more languid pace. We had a "typical Aussie BBQ" lunch, which included sausages, potato salad and pasta, and seemed similar to a "typical Kiwi BBQ". By the afternoon the red dust was gone but the wind was still strong, so we found a sheltered spot to lie back. It felt cold, so I gallantly offered my coat, but no thanks, she had her own. As we finished the tour at The Rocks, thoroughly relaxed, we were hand-in-hand as we departed the ship. Together again.
Those who haven't been to Sydney should imagine a city with a huge harbour, waterfront and rolling hills surrounding the water. Sound familiar? Then imagine that city had the foresight and money to actually construct buildings worthy of its status.
I had won, I had my girlfriend back and I had Sydney and a little baby elephant to thank for it. Sydney, brash, shiny, glamorous city that she is, can really work wonders for a relationship revival. We took an invigorating dip in the waters of reconciliation and it worked.
Finbarr Bunting was hosted by New South Wales Tourism
GETTING THERE
Blue Sydney, a Taj Hotel, is in Woolloomooloo. Go to www.tajhotels.com To book with Astra Limousines call + 61 2 9693 5300.
For a lesson at Manly surf school email matt@manlysurfschool.com
For more information on Sydney Tall Ships go to www.sydneytallships.com.au
Captain Cook Cruises have a New Zealand office, call 09 459 7441
AT A GLANCE
Sydney is the largest city in Australia with 4.34 million residents in the metropolitan area.
It has a temperate climate with warm summers and cool winters. There is an average of 14.6 days a year over 30C.
It is home to more than 80,000 New Zealanders and one of the most multi-cultural cities in the world.
There are flights daily to Sydney from Christchurch and Auckland.
