One night in Bangkok

CATHERINE HARRIS/Dominion Post

BEDAZZLING: There's a lot of gold at The Grand Palace.

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The first thing anyone will mention about Bangkok is not the notorious sex shows, but the traffic. Getting from the airport itself can be a mission, although it is made easier by taxi. So a stopover in Bangkok is barely feasible unless you spend a good day and a night.

But you can pack a lot into that time. Arriving in early evening is best so you can still get a good night's sleep or sample the nightlife first. The night markets are open until 11pm, but hold off on the serious shopping - you've got a few must- sees to do first.

Bangkok has many cheap and quick tailors, some of whom will turn around a garment in 12 hours. The more expensive ones are found in the lobbies of big hotels.

A man's suit can be as cheap as US$99 (NZ$135) at reputable establishments. Don't forget to bargain, but my experience was that the Thai are gentle people who aren't so much into the hard sell.

One of the pleasures of the markets is being able to shop without being hounded. A gentle invitation to look is usually all you receive.

Next morning, the main objective should be The Grand Palace and the majestic temple Wat Arun. It's easier to get around by taxi early in the day, because shops don't open until about 11am, and it should cost only about $5 from Siam Centre in downtown Bangkok.

A cheaper and more logical option is to take the Skytrain to Saphan Taksin station and then take a ferry up the river to Ta Tien Pier. Hop off there to see the palace and famous reclining buddha at Wat Po, before crossing the river to see Wat Arun.

The Grand Palace is open from 8.30am, despite what taxi drivers might tell you before offering to let you cool your heels at a factory store.

The building of the palace began in 1782, and it is truly grand. Although the current king lives elsewhere, the temples and special-purpose buildings are the real attraction.

Some buildings are replete in gold leaf, with mosaics of glass and porcelain. Golden angels and intricate epic paintings provide a feast for the senses. The Grand Palace is also the residence of the Emerald Buddha which, although made of jade, is still regarded as spiritually precious to the Thai people.

For about US$20, a guide is a good investment. Mine gave me good tips about when not to come to Bangkok (April brings temperatures into the high 40 degrees celsius - "you would die") and plenty of insights into Buddhism.

He also explained how the palace architecture assimilates Cambodian and Sri Lankan styles as well as classical Thai, and pointed out a scale model of Cambodia's Angkor Wat. I'm not surprised, as the Thai are well known for their ability to selectively adopt aspects of other cultures.

The 81-year-old king, much revered, was himself a progressive, and much loved for opening the Grand Palace to the public when he ascended the throne. His father's palace features French architecture on the bottom and Thai on the top, an outcome of the education he received from the real Miss Anna, made famous in The King and I. The film is still banned in Thailand.

Across the river, the nearly 400-year- old Wat Arun or the "Temple of Dawn" is also stunning if a little quicker to get around. For a few cents, a ferry will take you across the river and for 70 baht (NZ$3.50) one can climb to the top of one of its vertigo-inducing towers. Those with a little more time might want to check out the Thai massage school next door.

All this is achievable in an easy two to three hours. An extra option is a river cruise of the canals, where many original stilt houses jostle with newer wealthier versions. But at 1100 baht , I did not consider it such good value.

Tours completed, it's time to jump into a metered taxi (tuk tuks are cheaper, but more dangerous) and fight your way back to your hotel.

If it's central and you're after clothes, MBK near Siam Centre comes highly recommended for outfits that are value for money, while brand lovers can get lost at the huge Paragon Siam. Lunch at any of the ground floor cafes is relatively cheap - a main should cost no more than 200 baht.

If you arrive at the weekend, many Thais shop at the famous Chatachuk market, which is easily reached by Skytrain. This is the home of cheap knock-offs and souvenirs, but it is usually packed and quite grimy in places, saved by a pleasant park next door.

Other shopping options are the Suan Lum night bazaar (from 3pm), Patpong, or the roadside stalls around Nana station, where a good dinner can also be had.

But if your 24 hours are up, it's time to pick up your newly tailored clothes, jump in a taxi to the airport (the Skytrain extends there next year), and invariably wish you had more time to enjoy the gentle charms of the Thai.