Review: Corianders

JAX HAMILTON
Last updated 12:00 30/01/2015
Corianders
Meredith Dyer

INDIAN CUISINE: Corianders is the new addition to St Asaph St.

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Blimey! Back in London, going for a curry was all about stumbling out of a pub after too many pints and down a back alley to a living-room sized restaurant, with flock wallpaper, a gold toilet seat and all the pilau one could eat.

Coriander's latest branch provides a totally different experience. The restaurant is more than impressive, bringing a stamp of culture to St Asaph St's dining precinct.

Even before mounting the steps and entering the double doors, the beautiful mural on the side of the building, filigree balcony and lights on the verandah welcome us with open Indian arms, in modern, Bollywood-style.

This is a massive restaurant, with three dining areas. Sitting at the bar, waiting for my table, I can't help but ogle the passing wait staff rushing around with sizzling tandoori platters, boulder-sized onion bhaji and my favourite, baskets of fluffy naan breads with which to mop up those delicious sauces. 

Concentrating on drinks, I am happy to see a selection of local and Australian wines, ranging from $6.50 a glass. My choice, a Trinity Hill shiraz, is $8 a glass. Among the variety of Indian beers are the famous Bangalore, Kingfisher and Bengal Double bitter.

Once seated, I have one eye on the extensive menu, while simultaneously watching the open kitchen, as chefs expertly handle the long skewers and tandoor ovens.

My advice when ordering a curry is to over-order. There is nothing more delicious than curry for breakfast and, truthfully, that is when you know you've had a good one. If the cold sauce is swimming in oil the next morning, then you're in trouble. If not, its round two - tuck in.

Be warned, the onion bhaji portion ($6.50) is three massive pieces, more than enough for two to share. Crisp on the outside, and soft, yellow and delicious inside, they have incredible flavours.

Next, I opt for the Bombay chicken ($21.50), which the menu boasts is "an all-time favourite", and garlic naan ($4). All curries are served to your taste - mild, medium, hot or extremely hot - with steaming bowls of basmati rice. I recommend a side of banana and coconut ($4), a fabulous taste sensation with a medium or hot curry.

The food is off-the-charts good; flavours and textures abound. I can just about taste every spice in my sauce. I shut my eyes and I'm in Indian heaven.

If you enjoy popping out for butter chicken or tikka masala, you won't be disappointed. If, like me, you're a bit more adventurous, then this is also the place for you with a bevy of northern Indian dishes from which to choose.

However, if you like a curry in front of the telly, Coriander's has a takeaway service allowing you to order online.

I've got curry for breakfast - boom!

Where: 222 St Asaph St, central city.

Service: Quick and efficient.

Prices: Competitive.

Ambience: Full of Indian goodness.

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