River city reborn

BRETT'S WHARF: A seafood restaurant and bar enjoyed by people and pelicans.

Former Brisbanites returning to their home city have been gobsmacked by the dramatic changes. MARK CORNELL'S debut visit also leaves a deep impression.

The heatwave that greeted me at Brisbane's airport was a welcome surprise from the cold southerly-bashed Christchurch that I had left just three hours earlier.

It was my first visit to the Queensland capital, but I'd heard plenty about the Gold Coast and the adventure theme parks - but not much about Brisbane, the city.

The amount of redevelopment I saw on the taxi ride to the city centre was amazing, starting close to the airport with the 4.5-star Novotel hotel and its 157 rooms. Inside, the six-storey atrium sets off the contemporary design of this recent addition to the Novotel chain.

You would never know you were so close to the airport or railway, all the luxury rooms benefiting from a soundproof glazing system on the windows - so good, you can't even hear the trains a few hundred metres away. The rail link can take you to the Gold Coast or into the Brisbane city centre.

Across the road is a new airport village, with shops and amenities that attract shoppers from the Sunshine Coast, an hour's drive away.

The motorway system has just been extended, speeding up travel times around the region. , The development of light industrial land into apartment blocks, bars and restaurants continues for most of the journey into the heart of Brisbane, the river city.

A river cruise is a great way to get an informed view and understanding of the history and layout of the city. River City RIB rides, for example, give good views of the city, past and present.

The river has many restaurants along its banks, including award- winning seafood restaurant Brett's Wharf. Not only does it have great food, but also relaxing views overlooking the river - you can watch the boats sail past and the pelicans being fed.

With the warm and humid climate, you'll need a drink at some stage - and, just like the many restaurants, there are just as many bars to choose from. It's worth stopping on the South Bank for a drink - it's close to the Gallery of Modern Art, which is hosting the 6th Asian Pacific Triennial of Contemporary Art, a multitude of different art forms from painting, multimedia, audio, visual to interactive sculpture from all over the Pacific, including New Zealand.

If you're looking to get the sand between your toes then half an hour's drive out of town is the Micat ferry terminal to Morton Island.

A short ferry ride will take you to one of world's largest sand islands and if you like snorkelling, a must is a swim out in the shallow, clear, warm water at Tangalooma wrecks, an artificial reef and home to many species of tropical fish - a great day out, if time allows.

I was there just for the weekend and there's a great deal more for me to see on a return visit.

- © Fairfax NZ News