Jolly cauli

CAULIFLOWER

DEAN KOZANIC

JOLLY CAULI: Provencal cauliflower salad.

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Even a desensitised cold-blocked nose will recognise cauliflower as a member of the cabbage family.

Like its cousins, cauli has an overcooked past. Too much water, too much salt and too much heat willl turn every crisp white floret (the divisions of the white head) into soggy blah.

Even cauliflower cheese is best if the vegetable retains a skerrick of firmness and, in a cauliflower salad it is essential the florets be cooked only to the cusp of tenderness, then cooled as quickly as possible.

To buy:

The head should be white and clean and the florets closely packed. Any leaves should be crisp and the stalk still firm.

To cook:

Trim the stalk so the cauliflower stands level, cut out any damaged florets, discard or compost along with the leaves. If the whole head is to be used, put a centimetre of so of water with a little salt in a saucepan and bring to the boil, add the cauliflower, stalk down, cover tightly and cook over high heat for 5 to 6 minutes. The stalk will cook in the water but the head will steam. Remove and drain and prepare further or serve. If only a section of the cauli is required, break off the florets but don't trim closely. Drop into a little boiling water, and watch closely.

Boil for no more than two minutes, test with a skewer and if beginning to soften drain immediately into a colander and run cold water over to cool quickly. Drain again then use as intended.

Try this

PROVENCAL CAULIFLOWER SALAD.

Trim half a medium cauliflower into florets and cook until on the cusp of tenderness.

Drain and cool quickly, as above. Place in bowl.

Chop 1-2 Tbsp stoned black olives, 1-2 shallots and quarter piece of a char-grilled red pepper (jarred roast peppers are useful here). Add to florets.

Make a vinaigrette dressing with half and half oil (walnut oil is superb with cauliflower) and white wine vinegar, a pinch of sugar, 1 tsp French mustard, salt and pepper to taste, then add 1 Tbsp fresh orange juice and 1 tsp orange zest and whisk.

Toss dressing through cauliflower mixture and serve at room temperature.

- © Fairfax NZ News